West Serbia Travel Guide: How to Visit Mokra Gora, Drvengrad, Sargan Eight Train & More!
If you’re looking to escape the busy atmosphere of Belgrade, enjoy some rural nature, or just want to recharge your batteries for the weekend, you’re in the right place: welcome to my West Serbia travel guide!
Although it’s still very much off the beaten track, West Serbia is one of those places that definitely deserves a spot on your Serbia itinerary.
To convince you, let me start off with a few questions 😉
How about taking a charming vintage train and looking through the window to see scenes of lush forests, antique bridges, and teal-blue rivers?
Maybe you’re up for a challenge and want to hike on adventurous trails that lead to epic views?
Or perhaps you might be interested in traveling back in time to a traditional 19th century village… that was actually created for a movie and now hosts a film festival?
You’re in luck: you can find all that — and much more! — in Western Serbia!
There are so many interesting places to visit in West Serbia, but few people know of this hidden gem…
Until now. :)
Be sure to bookmark this West Serbia itinerary when planning your trip, as it has all the information you need to plan your trip, including where to go, what to see, places to stay, and much more.
I hope this travel guide inspires you to take a trip to one of the most beautiful places in Serbia. Let’s check it out!
WHAT IS WEST SERBIA?
West Serbia is one of five regions in Serbia and, like the name says, is located in the western part of the country.
Interestingly enough, the full name of the region is Šumadija and Western Serbia because before 2010, Western Serbia used to be its own area until it was merged with the Central Region (called Šumadija).
Although there are 8 total areas that make up Western Serbia, we’re mostly going to be focusing on Zlatibor because that’s where the majority of the attractions are found (but more on that later!).
The area is famous for its emerald green mountains, traditional villages, local cuisine, and natural attractions — think caves, waterfalls, hiking trails, and so on.
WHY VISIT WEST SERBIA?
Ok, ok, so now we have a better idea of what West Serbia is… but why should you visit? I’m glad you asked! Here are just some reasons:
💚 Not far from Belgrade — West Serbia is only a 3 to 3.5 hour car ride from the capital, which makes it perfect for a weekend trip. If you love nature, you could easily spend an entire week exploring the area!
💚 Pristine nature — The jewel in West Serbia’s crown is none other than Tara National Park, which spans more than 85 square miles (220 sq km). However, you’ll find nature no matter where you look — expect fresh spring rivers, lush forests, caves, beautiful lakes, and much more. :)
💚 Hiking opportunities & amazing views — If you’re up for an adventure, consider hiking one of the dozens of clearly-marked hiking trails at Tara NP as well as around the area. Thanks to the park’s average altitude (between 1000 to 2000 m), you’ll be rewarded with jaw-dropping views like those at the Banjska Stena or Drlije viewpoints!
💚 Plenty of tourist attractions — However, West Serbia isn’t just nature and mountains. You’ll also find plenty of interesting cultural attractions, like Drvengrad or the museums in Užice.
💚 Great if you plan to visit neighboring countries (or are coming from them) — If you’re traveling to Serbia from Bosnia, then West Serbia makes for a fantastic introduction to the country. It also works vice versa — West Serbia is close to Montenegro and Bosnia’s borders.
HOW MANY DAYS DO I NEED IN WEST SERBIA?
Although you can see the biggest attractions in just one day (especially if it’s a guided tour), I highly recommend setting aside at least two days if you want to get to know West Serbia better.
This gives you plenty of time to see the highlights (like the Drina River House, Sargan train, Drvengrad, etc), take a short hike around Tara National Park, and maybe even fit in a few off-the-beaten-path spots like the Stopić Cave or Sirogojno Etno Village.
Of course, the more the merrier — fans of slow travel can take their time and see the area in a week or even more. :)
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT WEST SERBIA?
Although West Serbia is beautiful all year round, the best time to visit is between Spring to the beginning of autumn.
During the spring, you can experience the crisp air and new blooms, while during the summer the Tara National Park comes alive in hundreds of shades of vibrant greens and blues.
The beginning of autumn is also nice, when the leaves turn orange and the area gets a special cozy atmosphere.
If you’re planning to visit during winter, be sure to keep in mind that some touristy places may be closed, and that the Šargan train may not be operational between November through March (check out the official website for updates).
HOW TO GET TO WEST SERBIA
Thanks to its popularity and convenient location, there are a few different ways to get to West Serbia. Let’s break them down:
Rent A Car
Although I’m usually a public transportation person, I decided to rent a car for my trip to West Serbia for a few reasons.
First, you’re in complete control of your schedule (versus being tied to a specific time when taking the bus or train) and you can stop randomly to get snacks or check out cool roadside attractions!
Second: although busses run to the main cities in Western Serbia (like Užice or Zlatibor), there are some places that you just need a car to access, like the Banja viewpoint or Drvengrad.
Third, it’s cheaper than taking a tour if you have a group of two or more people. Since my boyfriend and I were traveling to West Serbia, we could split our car rental and have it be cheaper.
Finally, I wanted to enjoy the whole #CabinLife thing and stay overnight in a cute cabin. If this sounds like you, your best bet is to rent a car. :)
I paid 62 EUR ($73 USD) for a 2-day car rental, and an additional $50 USD for gas. This is because our car rental company wanted the tank to be full when we gave it back, although your contact might be different.
Also, a quick note: you could save around 10 to 20% on your car rental if you know how to drive manual, but since I didn’t, I had to pay a bit extra for an automatic car. :)
We booked a car rental through RentalCars in downtown Belgrade and were very happy with the service.
—
You can also reach West Serbia by bus or train, but I wouldn’t recommend it because there is a lack of taxis near the mountains. However, here are the options:
—
Train to West Serbia
There’s a train route that goes from Belgrade to Užice, which is considered the ‘gateway to Western Serbia’ and also one of the closest towns to Mokra Gora.
The journey takes around 3.5 hours and costs 770 RSD (second class) to 1100 RSD (first class).
You can check the train’s timetable on the official Rail Serbia website — just type in from ‘BEOGRAD CENTAR’ and to ‘UŽICE’ (make sure to pay careful attention, as there are other cities with a very similar name!)
From Užice, it’s a 45-minute taxi ride to Mokra Gora. Alternatively, you can stay in Užice (there are plenty of amazing accommodations!) and take a 1-hour train ride to Zlatibor, the other ‘gateway to Western Serbia.’ :)
If you plan to go even further, you can take a taxi from Zlatibor to Mokra Gora for around 15 ~ 20 EUR. Voila!
Bus to West Serbia
Similar to the train option, you can also take the bus from Belgrade to Zlatibor or Užice, although the journey will take slightly longer.
If you plan to stay near Tara National Park, there’s a bus that goes from Belgrade right to the foot of the park. Check out Raketa AB bus company, whose “Beograd – Tara” line leaves the capital at 9AM and arrives at Hotel Omorika, which is right next to the national park.
Tours around West Serbia
If you prefer to have someone else handle the logistics (I feel ya!), there are also plenty of guided tours to West Serbia.
You can expect to pay between 80 to 100 EUR per person for a full day tour that lasts around 10 to 12 hours. Check out some of the best West Serbia tours here:
SAMPLE WEST SERBIA ITINERARY
If you’re planning a trip to West Serbia but don’t have a clear plan just yet, no worries — I’ve created a simple West Serbia itinerary for you to follow!
The basic overview looks something like this:
Drina River House —> Banjska Stena — > Zaovine Lake— > Sargan Eight train — > Drvengrad
Since you might be coming from a different direction (i.e. north from Belgrade or south from Nis), the itinerary can be done in reverse as well or mix and match as you see fit. If you have a few extra days, you can add a couple of other interesting stops along the way — check out the “HAVE MORE TIME?” section below for ideas. :)
Likewise, feel free to swap the Sargan Eight train for Drvengrad or vice versa. Because these two attractions are so close to each other, you can start with Drvengrad if you arrive early and have time before the train, or take the Sargan train first and then enjoy a leisurely stroll through the village afterwards.
THINGS TO DO IN WESTERN SERBIA
Where to go & What to see in Western Serbia
Drina River House
Est. time: 10 mins to take photos + up to 1 hour if stopping for food
Did you know that the Drina River House is one of the most famous (and most photographed) attractions in Serbia?
It’s true: The original house was built in the late 1960’s by a group of friends who wanted to relax after swimming. They spotted a lone rock in the middle of the Drina river, hauled over some materials, and voila!
Although the original house (and six successors) were washed away by the Drina river’s strong currents, the seventh house is proudly standing and posing for photographers to this day. It’s no wonder why Serbians have a saying that translates to, “You can’t set the crooked Drina straight” 😅
If you’re traveling from Belgrade to West Serbia, the Drina River House will most likely be your first stop. There’s a small parking lot between a few restaurants that has a great view of the house, as well as a dock that you can descend to see the Drina House up close.
Unfortunately you can’t visit the house, since it’s private property and there are no boats that make the trip. However, if you visit during the summer, don’t miss the chance to participate in the Drina Regatta, a festival complete with floating tubes, music, barbecues, and much more.
Banjksa Stena
Est. time: 15 mins to get there + 45 mins to take photos and explore
About an hour away from our first point (Drina River House) is the stunning view from Banjksa Stena.
If you have a car, the easiest way to get here is to park at the Banjska Stena parking lot (here are the Google Map coordinates) and then take a leisurely 15 minute walk up to the viewpoint.
Although it’s called the Banjska Stena Viewpoint, there are actually a couple of viewpoints in the area! The first and most famous is a little “balcony” with a fence and bench made from wood logs. If you come here early in the morning, you can have the place all to yourself. Otherwise, there’s usually a neat line with people waiting to take photos.
If you follow the marked path to the right and go a few meters further, you’ll see two more viewpoints. The first is a small yellow chair where you can chill out, and right in front is another viewing platform that’s similar to the first. Don’t miss the cute cutout sign of a brown bear, which is perfect for an Instagram photo. :)
Zaovine Lake
Est. time: 1+ hour
After enjoying the view of West Serbia from above, it’s time to see it from below! After a 30-minute drive, you’ll arrive at one of the prettiest natural attractions in West Serbia: Zaovine Lake.
Ironically, the lake was actually man-made in the 1980s as a way to prevent the Drina River from flooding during rainy seasons, but steadily turned into a tourist attraction over time.
If you have time, I recommend driving along the lake and taking in all of the natural beauty that surrounds it. It takes about an hour and about 17 mi (27 km) to drive along the perimeter.
There are tons of little villages and cabins scattered around the lake, as well as family-run restaurants and locals selling fruits, honey, and produce. During the summer, you can also take a refreshing swim or enjoy a picnic near the shores.
✨ If you’re planning a multi-day trip through Western Serbia, you can stop in Zaovine, the village next to the lake. There are plenty of fantastic accommodations, like cozy cabins and guest houses, to stay overnight. Best of all, Zaovine is only a short drive to the next two places on this list! ✨
Sargan Eight Train
Est. time: 2.5 hours
If you love museums, nature, or train rides (or all three!), you’ll definitely want to take a ride on the historic Šargan Eight train.
Also known as the Mokra Gora train, it was originally used to connect Belgrade (Serbia) to Sarajevo (Bosnia & Herzegovina) but was abandoned in the 1980s. However, it was restored in 2000 when Mokra Gora became a tourist complex, and has been delighting tourists ever since. :)
Interestingly, the “eight” in the name of Šargan Eight comes from the looped form that it makes when climbing up the mountains — resembling the number 8.
The Sargan train starts at Mokra Gora station, makes a short stop at Šargan Vitasi station, and then continues back to its starting point. The 9 mi (15 km) journey takes about 2 to 2.5 hours and passes through 22 tunnels, 5 bridges, and countless amazing views.
⭐️ Travel tip: If you’re visiting during the busy tourist season (late spring to summer), be sure to get to the ticket office ahead of time. The Sargan train ride can get very popular during these months and sometimes the tickets can be sold out.
Drvengrad
Est. time: 1 hour +
Last but certainly not least is the charming wooden village of Drvengrad — it’s even in the name: Drvengrad literally means timber town!
Although it looks like an authentic traditional Serbian village, Drvengrad started off as a movie set for Emir Kusturica’s film Life Is a Miracle. After the film was complete, Drvengrad was turned into a sort of open-air museum that took a 19th century village in Serbia and froze it in time.
Drvengrad (also called Küstendorf and Mećavnik) has a town ‘center’ that includes retro cars, a church, various houses, and a square. There are multiple restaurants and cafes scattered around town, and even the streets are named after famous people like Federico Fellini, Nikola Tesla, Ingmar Bergman, and Diego Maradona. For some cute souvenirs, heads towards the back of the complex — this is also an excellent spot to take a photo.
If you want to take it one step further and be a local in Drvengrad for a day, you can also stay overnight at one of the wooden houses or at the hotel complex— check out the available rooms here.
Psst! I have an entire travel guide to Drvengrad – click here to read more!
HAVE MORE TIME?
ADD THESE AMAZING SPOTS TO YOUR ITINERARY
If you’re visiting West Serbia for more than a few days, be sure to squeeze at least one of these attractions into your trip.
🌲 Zlatibor — As I mentioned in the introduction, Zlatibor is considered to be one of the ‘gateways to Western Serbia,’ and rightfully so! It’s one of the most popular places in Serbia to enjoy rural tourism yet have all of the comforts of a typical town. Thanks to its moderate climate and fresh spring waters, Zlatibor is also famous for its wellness and spa resorts.
Some of the most popular places in Zlatibor include its namesake lake in the middle of town, the golden gondola (which, at a 30 minute ride, is also the longest gondola ride in the world!), and the numerous museums.
🌲 Tara National Park — Technically, the majority of the attractions mentioned here are located in Tara National Park, but it should have its own spot on the list, especially if you love to hike or explore nature.
Although there are five national parks across Serbia, Tara is perhaps the most famous — in fact, it’s on UNESCO’s tentative list as a World Heritage Site! It’s also one of the most beautiful places in the entire country, thanks to its unspoilt nature, fresh air, and diverse wildlife. In fact, it’s no wonder why the mythical Slavic god Tar chose this park as his home. :)
🌲 Sirogojno Etno Village — If you’ve ever wondered what life was like in Serbia back in the day, just pay a visit to Sirogojno’s open air museum. The village, which covers 5 hectares, contains 55 houses that were taken from all over the region and painstakingly reconstructed here. Besides the traditional wooden buildings, there’s also a church, bakery, and inn
🌲 Stopića Cave — Not too far from Sirogojno is this epic cave, which features five ‘rooms,’ a waterfall, and unusual geological formations that look similar to the pools at Pamukkale, Turkey.
🌲 El Paso Theme Park — No, this isn’t a typo (nor am I bad at geography 😅)… There’s actually a theme park that was inspired by El Paso, Texas! Located a few minutes away from Zlatibor, “El Paso” is decked out in a Wild West theme, complete with old-timey saloons, stacks of hay, fake horses, and even a restaurant that serves fusion Tex Mex / Serbian cuisine.
Just like Drvengrad, you can even stay overnight at the park in your very own caravan or cottage!
🌲 Uvac Canyon — Although it stretches some 70 mi (114 km), one of the most beautiful lookout points of the Uvac River is at Uvac Canyon! The Uvac Special Nature Reserve is noted for having one of the best hiking areas in Serbia thanks to its wild nature and beautiful views.
For the best view of the curved Uvac River, head to the top of the canyon.
Besides hiking, there are tons of things to do in Uvac and its surroundings, including kayaking, offroading, and boat trips.
🌲 Kadinjača Memorial Park — If you’re into spomeniks (Yugoslav-era monuments), then Kadinjača is definitely worth the drive (or taxi fare). This surreal and interesting monument complex is dedicated to Yugoslav partisans who fought in WWII, which you can read more information about in the memorial hall.
🌲 Other beautiful viewpoints — Although Banjska Stena might be the most popular viewpoint in Western Serbia, there are plenty more that deserve some love! Check these out as well:
💚 Biljeska Stena — Offering views of Lake Perucac, as well as a forest with Serbian pines and the hut that was used in the cult film Some Birds Can’t Fly.
💚 Sokolarica Viewpoint — Has a great view of the Rača gorge and, if you’re lucky, you can see a golden eagle (this area is their nesting ground)!
💚 Crnjeskovo Observation Deck — A nice and fairly flat hike, with an observation deck at the top — on a clear day, you can even see Bosnia in the distance! While here, don’t forget to check out the beautiful yellow and orange building of the Serbian monastery (Манастир Сабора Српских Светитеља on Google Maps), just a 10-minute walk away.
💚 Vidikovac Osluša — For something nice and casual, Oslusa viewpoint offers unobstructed views of the Drina River, as well as a cafe and bar. Cheers!
WHERE TO STAY IN WESTERN SERBIA
Although it might look rural, Western Serbia has a fantastic variety of accommodations for every type of traveler, including luxury resorts to homestyle guest houses. If you’re a fan of cozy cabins, you’ll definitely find what you’re looking for here. 😉
To get you started with some inspiration, here are some of the best cities and towns to stay in West Serbia:
🌲 Bajina Bašta — If you’re driving to West Serbia from Belgrade, this is typically the first city that you’ll encounter, especially if you stop to take a look at the Drina River House. Located at the northern corner of Western Serbia, Bajina Bašta has convenient access to Tara National Park and nearby attractions. See accommodations in Bajina Bašta here.
🌲 Užice — If you prefer to stay near big cities, you’ll love Užice — it’s one of the most populated cities near Western Serbia. 😅 Užice is less than an hour’s drive to Mokra Gora and Tara NP, and has plenty of restaurants, museums, and other attractions to keep you busy. Psst… Don’t forget to try the local speciality, Užička komplet lepinja, which a type of flatbread with kajmak and egg. See accommodations in Užice here.
🌲 Zaovine — For something a little more rural, check out Zaovine. This tiny village is located at the base of Zaovine Lake and features the quintessential wooden cabins that are popular in the region. We stayed in Zaovine and loved the peaceful nature and beautiful sunsets over the lake! See accommodations in Zaovine here.
🌲 Zlatibor — Located between Užice and Mokra Gora is Zlatibor, a cheerful town that’s famous for its health and ski resorts. See accommodations in Zlatibor here.
🌲 Mokra Gora — If you’re looking to stay in the heart of West Serbia, Mokra Gora is as central as you can get. Although it’s fairly rural and you’ll need to drive to the nearest store, Mokra Gora is right next to the Sargan Eight train and Drvengrad. See accommodations in Mokra Gora here.
🌲 Sjenica — Located in the southern part of West Serbia, Sjenica is a peaceful town to stop if you’re planning to travel further south. It’s also a great base if you want to explore Uvac Canyon, which is only a short car ride away. See accommodations in Sjenica here.
Now that you have a better overview of the area, here are some of the best accommodations in West Serbia :)
Apartments DM — Is there anything cuter than this adorable and rustic cabin? The spacious apartments offer a huge balcony with a view, all the amenities you could ever want (AC, WiFi, kitchen) and even walking trails around the area.
Agoda || Booking.com
Mecavnik — If you fell in love with Drvengrad’s charming village life, why not stay there a little longer? That’s right: you can chill in your own little traditional wooden hut! Besides its charm, this Drvengrad accommodation includes breakfast, a pool, and the chance to have the town all to yourself after it closes. ;)
Agoda || Booking.com
—
Mountain Dream House — Although this might look like a typical cabin from the outside, Dream Home’s interior is modern, cozy, and spacious! This huge, 2,800 sq ft (260 sq m) home is the perfect choice for groups — it can accommodate up to 8 guests! — or those looking for a luxury getaway.
Booking.com
Milekic — Tucked away in an idyllic little corner of Mokra Gora is this adorable wooden house. Best of all, it has everything you need: the Sargan Eight train station is right behind the home, and there is a restaurant and grocery store within walking distance.
Agoda || Booking.com
—
Hotel Tara — If you prefer to stay in a traditional hotel, then Hotel Tara is exactly what you need. You can’t beat the location, especially if you plan to hike Tara National Park — the entrance is within walking distance! Likewise, the hotel has an on-site restaurant that offers a delicious breakfast buffet and dinner menu.
Booking.com
Konačište Osmica — Have you ever wanted to live in a train station? Here’s your chance! This hotel is set in the former Sargan Eight station (the train is next door) and is decked out in train-themed decor — be sure to check out the train tracks on the restaurant’s ceiling and see what other decor you can find!
Agoda || Booking.com
—
Brvnare Mrkic — Located in the tiny village of Kremna and a short drive to Mokra Gora, Mrkic log cabins are pet-friendly and run by a very friendly and welcoming host. Don’t miss the chance to try the delicious homemade breakfast (made from local ingredients) or relax in the traditional jacuzzi.
Agoda || Booking.com
Titova Vila Zlatibor — History fans, this one’s for you! How would you like to stay near the same villa that Tito (former president of Yugoslavia) lived in? The hotel complex, located in a quiet part of Zlatibor, offers modern apartments, a pool, sauna, and, of course, the original Tito villa right in the center.
Agoda || Booking.com
—
Lake House Perucac — Is there anything cooler than a house on a lake? If you know me, I love quirky and unusual accommodations, especially after staying in a lake house in Montenegro (I even have a whole section on them here!).
Located on the intersection of the Perucac and Drina rivers, this lake house is the perfect choice for a chill getaway in West Serbia. It offers a spacious outdoor deck with a BBQ grill, as well as a kitchenette and a comfy bedroom with beautiful views. Best of all, the entire house is solar-powered!
Agoda || Booking.com
Koliba Ikica i Mikica — You know those Coca-Cola Christmas commercials? I’m pretty sure this cabin would be an amazing set for the next ad. 
But seriously, this super romantic cabin is what dreams are made of! From the traditional design to the cute gingham and wood decor inside, you can’t go wrong with this choice. :)
Agoda || Booking.com
—
Cabin Pino Tara — Fans of the tiny house movement will fall in love with this cute little cabin! Decorated in a modern Scandinavian style, Cabin Pino has a charming outdoor nook complete with a rocking chair, as well as an indoor fireplace and panoramic windows — the ultimate recipe for a cozy winter trip to West Serbia!
Agoda || Booking.com
Apartments Milic — Located in a secluded nook of Tara National Park (it’s a short hike to Crnjeskovo Observation Deck!), Milic Apartments offers family-friendly apartments with modern decor and tons of amenities.
Agoda || Booking.com
—
Brvnara Sofiana — Doesn’t this charming cabin look like something out of a fairytale? Brvnara Sofiana is located just 1.8 mi (3 km) from Drina River and features two bedrooms and a spacious terrace with a view of the surrounding mountains.
Agoda || Booking.com
Brvnare — If you’re looking to recharge in nature, you’ll love this cozy wood cabin. It’s located in the middle of Tara National Park and is perfect for hiking, biking, and enjoying the peace and quiet of nature.
Agoda || Booking.com
BONUS TRAVEL TIPS FOR WEST SERBIA
🏔 If you’re planning to rent a cabin in a rural area or village (such as Zaovine or Mokra Gora), be sure to buy groceries and snacks ahead of time. Restaurants and grocery stores are fairly spare outside of big cities, and typically close earlier than what you might be used to. You can also ask your host about food, since many guest houses can cook homemade dishes for an extra fee.
🏔 Don’t accidentally drive into Bosnia & Herzegovina* — Although this sounds like a weird tip, it’s very possible to take a wrong turn and roll up to a border checkpoint… I know because I’ve been in this exact situation. 😅
I think this happens because the internet doesn’t work well near the border and our navigation app kept thinking we were somewhere else.
* Unless you’re actually planning to go to Bosnia, then by all means go for it — and check out my BiH travel guides if you need some inspiration. ☺️
🏔 Download Google Maps offline — Speaking of navigation, make sure to download the West Serbia area for offline use before you start driving. That way, you won’t need an internet connection to get to your destination. To do so, open Google Maps on your phone > click your avatar > Offline maps > Select your own map.
🏔 Watch your speed… — West Serbia is mountainous, which means that there are many curves and downward slopes. Be careful, stick to the speed limit, and slow down near curves, especially since some areas don’t have road dividers.
🏔 … But also look out for cool viewpoints! — Besides safety, another benefit of not speeding is that you might find unexpected and interesting roadside stops. :)
On our way back to Belgrade, we pulled over to a roadside stop that had a small viewing platform with an amazing panoramic view of the area, as well as a neat information board about the native plants and animals found there.
IMAGE CREDITS — Banska Stena – Nikola Knezevic | Zaovine Lake – Stefan Kostic | Sargan train – Herbert Ortner (Wikipedia) | Mokra Gora – Dino Kajtez | Hotels – respective owners
Thank you, do the same for Montenegro and Albania
Wow very interesting. Thanks a lot for the article
Very informative
Thank you so much 😊
We have flight to Serbia tomorrow ☺️
Thank you! Have a fantastic trip! :)