This is going to sound very cliche, but I firmly believe that Sarajevo is one of the most underrated capitals in Europe.
Its cozy teahouses, an atmosphere of joie de vivre (or should I say, rahatluk 
), and unique mix of Ottoman and European influences give it a distinct ambiance that pulls you in and makes you want to explore. So if you’re planning to travel to Sarajevo, then I’m certain that you’ll also fall in love with the city!
This Sarajevo travel guide will show you everything you need to know for a first-time visit, including how to get there, what to do in Sarajevo, where to stay, and much more.
SARAJEVO CITY GUIDE
Perfect for …
An unexpected weekend getaway – Poignant history – Energetic atmosphere – Coffeehouses and tea houses galore!
Known as the ‘Jerusalem of Europe,’ Sarajevo is a multicultural city where Islam, Christianity, and Judaism co-mingled for centuries.
Thanks to its central location in Bosnia & Herzegovina, Sarajevo is an excellent base to start or end your trip. For example, it’s only a 2-hour journey to one of Bosnia’s most popular destinations, Mostar, and there are more than a dozen day trips available from Sarajevo (check out this post’s last section for the full list!)
However, it’s totally understandable if you decide to stay in Sarajevo. The city’s calm and pleasant atmosphere is partially influenced by its numerous cafes and tea houses. Is there anything better than ordering a nice cup of Bosnian coffee and watching the world go by?
I’ll let you answer that question. 
How many days do I need in Sarajevo?
Two days is a good start: You can spend one day exploring the city and another day at (what I call) ‘upper Sarajevo’ — taking a cable car up to Trebević Mountain and leisurely making your way back down with a stop at the Abandoned Bobsleigh Track.
Best of all, the city is fairly compact and you can explore the main tourist attractions in Sarajevo by foot.
HOW TO GET TO SARAJEVO
The city’s central location means that you have many options in traveling to Sarajevo, especially from neighboring Balkan countries like Serbia, Croatia, Montenegro, and more.
FROM NEIGHBORING COUNTRIES
From Serbia
The most common way to travel from Serbia to Bosnia is between Belgrade to Sarajevo. If you’re planning to travel from one capital to the other, there are a few ways to do so:
BUS – There’s a direct bus from a few different companies, including Flixbus, and the journey takes about 8 hours (not counting time at the border).
If you prefer not sitting on the bus all day, you can also take a 3-hour direct bus from Belgrade to Bijeljina (a city near the border), stay overnight, and take another 5-hour bus to Sarajevo.
Pssst — If you stop in Bijeljina, be sure to visit Ethno Village Stanisici, an awesome village complex with traditional Bosnian houses from all over the country!
CAR – The driving distance between Belgrade and Sarajevo is 300 km (186 mi), and takes about 5 to 6 hours depending on traffic.
PLANE – Finally, there is a direct flight from Belgrade to Sarajevo. It’s less than an hour and served by Air Serbia. Check airline tickets from Serbia to Bosnia here.
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From Croatia
BUS – Croatia has a ton of bus connections to Sarajevo. The easiest and most comfortable way of getting between the two countries is via Flixbus, which has routes from Rijeka, Split, Dubrovnik, Pula, and Zagreb to Sarajevo.
CAR – The shortest way of traveling from Croatia to Sarajevo is from Split, which is around a 4 ~ 4.5 hour journey. There’s also the option to drive from Dubrovnik, which is a very popular route. The trip takes around 5 hours and passes through another famous city (Mostar).
PLANE – There are flights from multiple Croatian cities, including Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik, Zadar, and Pula. However, only the flight between Zagreb to Sarajevo is direct, while those from other cities have a layover in Zagreb before proceeding to Sarajevo. Check airline tickets from Croatia to Bosnia here.
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From Montenegro
BUS – There are both direct and indirect buses from Montenegro to Sarajevo: the direct buses take about 8 hours (plus border crossing time), while the indirect buses typically stop in Mostar.
CAR – Traveling from Kotor to Sarajevo by car takes about 4.5 to 5.5 hours, depending on traffic and border crossing time.
PLANE – There are flights from both of Montenegro’s airports — Tivat and Podgorica — although they are not direct.
FROM ELSEWHERE
PLANE — Sarajevo is the country’s biggest airport and, as such, has many connections to European cities and beyond. There’s even an airport shuttle bus that will take you straight to Bascarsija (the city center) for 5 KM (2.50 EUR) — the timetable can be found on the airport’s official Facebook page.
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BUS — If you’re taking a bus to Bosnia & Herzegovina, there’s a good chance you’ll end up here. :)
However, it’s important to note that there are two bus stations in the city: the main one near the center is called Sarajevo Central Bus Station, while the other one is on the southern outskirts and called Istočno Sarajevo Bus Station.
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TRAIN — The city has its own train station called the Sarajevo Main Railway Station (Glavna željeznička stanica u Sarajevu). Even better, it’s just a few meters away from the central bus station!
TRAVEL TIP: Be aware of taxi scams! Similar to most other countries in the Balkans, it’s best to watch out for unscrupulous taxi drivers. We arrived in Sarajevo via a (very long) bus ride from Belgrade and were very tired.
Right outside the bus station we saw a taxi driver and, trying our luck, we asked how much it would cost. He held up three fingers and said tri very quickly, which was very suspicious. To put it in perspective, 3 KM is about 1.5 EUR and very cheap for a taxi trip from a bus station on the outskirts to the city center. When we got in the car, I immediately prepared the 3 KM and, upon seeing this, the taxi driver shook his head and said no no, thirty (15 EUR)… even though seconds ago, he was saying three and thinking we were clueless tourists.
TRANSPORTATION & GETTING AROUND SARAJEVO
Sarajevo has all of the typical comforts of a capital city, including a comprehensive public transportation system. You can get around Sarajevo using a variety of methods, including buses, trolleys, taxis, and even the adorable trams that zigzag around the city.
Here’s a quick primer on public transport in Sarajevo:
TRAM
Taking the tram is one of the best (and easiest!) ways to get around Sarajevo. Although there are a handful of tram lines, the most important one for tourists is tram line #3.
The route goes from east to west and covers nearly all of the important stops. If you’re planning to travel to the railway or bus station, tram lines #1 and #4 are also helpful in getting there.
Some important things to note: A single tram ticket costs 1.80 KM (less than 1 EUR) if you purchase it from the driver onboard, or 1.60 KM at a newsstand kiosk. Be sure to carry coins and bills, since credit cards aren’t accepted. The ticket must be validated at one of those little boxes near the front of the tram, and is valid for 1 hour — so feel free to ride around for a while and enjoy the scenery.
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CABLE CAR
Last but certainly not least, Sarajevo has its own cable car system! There’s only one route, which takes you from Sarajevo’s city center to Mt. Trebevic. The ride takes about 9 minutes to reach the top, and uncovers beautiful views of the city’s skyline. The price is 15 KM (7.5 EUR) for a one-way ticket or 20 KM (10 EUR) for a round-trip ticket.
I recommend buying a one-way ticket to the top and walking back down with a stop at the Abandoned Bobsleigh Track (Check out What To Do in Sarajevo for the full info!)
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TAXI
Although most people associate taxis with higher costs, this isn’t the case in Sarajevo. There are a decent amount of taxis in the city, with most drivers hanging around the Old Town and other sights. A typical ride within the city should cost you a few KMs, and not more than 10 EUR. As mentioned above, be careful when taking a taxi from the railway or bus stations, as some drivers may try to inflate the price.
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BUS
For everything else, there’s the bus. :)
WHAT TO DO IN SARAJEVO
Sarajevo is, in a sense, similar to other Balkan cities like Novi Sad (Serbia) or Plovdiv (Bulgaria). Although fairly compact, it offers the perfect mix of cultural landmarks, museums, touristy things to do, and a thriving cafe and foodie scene.
If you’re still wondering what to see in Sarajevo, be sure to add the following places to your itinerary!
Wander through Baščaršija
One of the best ways to familiarize yourself with Sarajevo is to take a walk through Baščaršija (photo above), the city’s cultural soul and historical center. There’s a reason why I recommend doing this first (it’s #1 on this list!) before you move onto the other tourist attractions in Sarajevo :)
The area was originally the foundation for Sarajevo back in the 1400s, and, after a few centuries, Baščaršija is now a delightful mishmash of cobblestone alleys, hammams, traditional buildings, and hans (traditional inns). It’s the perfect place to hunt for a souvenir or two, or simply get lost amid the sounds of merchants haggling and clanking of coppersmiths.
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Stroll By the Sebilj Fountain
Speaking of Baščaršija… Don’t forget to take a photo with its superstar! Located in the center of the square, this Ottoman-style fountain is a symbol of the city and a popular spot to people watch.
Did you know that the Sebilj Fountain has its own legend? Locals say that anyone who drinks water from the fountain will surely come back to visit Sarajevo again. Why not try it out and let me know if it works?
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Be Dazzled at Sarajevo’s City Hall (Gradska Vijećnica Sarajevo)
Just a few minutes south of Baščaršija is a gorgeous orange and yellow building called the Vijećnica, or none other than Sarajevo City Hall!
Most of the city halls I’ve encountered on my trips are gorgeous from their exterior, but that’s typically all that you can do with them — just look and take photos from the outside.
However, Sarajevo’s City Hall is much more interactive because you can go inside! It’s definitely worth paying the 10 KM (5 EUR) entry fee, as you’ll get access to the art gallery upstairs and a small exhibit on WWI on the basement floor. Of course, don’t forget to marvel at the building’s eclectic mix of neo-Moorish, romanticist, and historicist influences.
The building was part of many important moments in history. In fact, Franz Ferdinand visited the city hall with his wife Sofia between the first and second assassination attempt on his life, which would later cause World War I.
Nearly a century later, the building would be destroyed by shelling and a fire during the Siege of Sarajevo in 1992. Although some locals and librarians who worked at the city hall tried to salvage what was left, more than a million books, manuscripts, and other valuable publications were unfortunately destroyed.
After the war, the city hall was in disrepair for many years until 2014, when it was restored to its former glory and reopened to locals and visitors. Despite its hardships, the city hall is a symbol of hope and resilience for many Sarajevans.
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Learn About the City’s Heartbreaking History
Although Sarajevo is an energetic and thriving city these days, it wasn’t always like this. During the 1990s, the city was subjected to horrible events that resulted in the Siege of Sarajevo. Over the course of nearly 4 years, the city faced constant shelling, sniper fire, and other atrocities before a ceasefire in 1996.
Although the Bosnian War was more than three decades ago, there are still stark reminders around the city, from apartment buildings with bullet hotels to ‘Sarajevo roses’ (marks in the sidewalk filled with red resin, where mortar shells exploded).
Likewise, there are a few museums to learn more about Bosnia’s history. The first three places can be done in a day, as they’re within a short walking distance from each other.
📍 Museum Of Crimes Against Humanity And Genocide — This was the museum we chose to visit first and, to be honest, it was a very emotional experience. The Museum of Genocide is a collection of items that came from the war, including the personal belongings of victims, army mementos, and stories from survivors.
📍 Galerija 11/07/95 — This museum/memorial/art gallery is more visual, with photographs and videos that specifically focus on the Srebrenica genocide (on July 11, 1995 — hence the name).
📍 War Childhood Museum — One of the newest museums in Sarajevo is the War Childhood Museum, which is similar to the first museum but is told from the children who lived through the Bosnian War.
📍 Tunnel of Hope — This museum / historical object is a bit farther than the other museums (it’s on outskirts of Sarajevo), but still worth a visit. Originally constructed at the beginning of the war, the Tunnel of Hope was the city’s only link to the outside world and used to funnel food, medical supplies, weapons, and other items to locals.
Likewise, one of the most powerful ways to learn more about a place or event is by interacting with someone who has personally been there. Since the war was in the 1990’s, nearly every Sarajevo guided tour will have someone who personally lived through the war. Here are some excursions to consider:
Times of Misfortune Half Day Tour in Sarajevo
Sarajevo: Bosnian War and Fall of Yugoslavia Tour
Tunnel War Tour
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Abandoned Olympic Bobsleigh Track
Last but certainly not least is my personal favorite: Sarajevo’s Abandoned Bobsleigh Track! If you’re a fan of urbex (urban exploration), street art, or just unusual places, then be sure to add this spot to your itinerary.
Did you know that Sarajevo was the host of the 1984 winter Olympics? There were many new venues and tracks built for the occasion, including the bobsleigh and luge track. The track was used for various events up until 1991, when the Bosnian War broke out.
After the war ended, the entire area was reclaimed by nature and had overgrown branches (it is, after all, near the side of a mountain!), as well as various war wounds (i.e. holes from shelling). In 2014 the city conducted an extensive de-mining operation and the track became a canvas for local graffiti and mural artists.
If you’re wondering how to visit the abandoned bobsled track in Sarajevo, I recommend buying a one-way ticket on the cable car up to the top and making your way down Mt. Trebevic. Be sure to budget about 2 to 3 hours for the whole trip (especially if you’re like me and stop every 3 minutes to take a photo ).
WHERE TO STAY IN SARAJEVO
ACCOMMODATIONS IN SARAJEVO
Sarajevo has a diverse variety of accommodations, from classic hotels and hostels to chic apartments, vacation rentals, and guesthouses. In fact, similar to other Balkan countries, apartments and guesthouses are extremely popular and make up a good chunk of the accommodations in Sarajevo.
Also, be sure to double and triple check the payment method before reserving your accommodation. As mentioned in my 17 Bosnia & Herzegovina travel tips post (point #6), a lot of places are cash-only and may cost you a trip to the ATM or currency exchange kiosk. WIth that in mind, let’s check out all of the cool places in Sarajevo!
SARAJEVO HOTELS
İsa Begov Hamam Hotel — with its gorgeous mosaic exterior, color palette, and oriental details, Isa Begov certainly gets my vote as the most beautiful hotel in Sarajevo.
The Isa Begov is the oldest hamam in the city (it was built in the 1400s!), although the majority of the baths were damaged in the Yuguslav Wars. After the war ended, the destroyed building was rebuilt into a hotel and assimilated parts of the old bath house.
Nowadays, guests can get a glimpse of the Ottoman Empire in one of the 15 bespoke rooms and suites, featuring handmade furniture, comfortable beds, and complimentary access to the Turkish baths!
WHERE TO BOOK: Booking.com | Agoda
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Heritage Hotel Gate of Sarajevo — The Gate of Sarajevo hotel is, like the name says, conveniently located on the edge of the city’s Old Town, which is perfect if you enjoy the quiet yet still want to be close to the tourist attractions. It’s an excellent choice if you have a car, as there’s free parking in front of the hotel and a gas station just a few meters away!
WHERE TO BOOK: Booking.com | Agoda | Hotels.com
Ibis Styles — Modern design meets Bosnian motifs at Ibis Styles, which is decorated from head to toe (or rather, lobby to terrace) in traditional details.
At the breakfast lobby guests can marvel at the ornate copper dishes, check out the colorful rugs and Vucko paintings in the lobby, or relax in style at the Bosnia-themed suites and rooms.
WHERE TO BOOK: Booking.com | Agoda | Hotels.com
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Villa Orient — Less than 100 meters from the famous Sebilj Fountain is this cozy hotel, which is actually a traditional Ottoman-style house! It has all the convenient comforts of a hotel, including complimentary breakfast, a 24-hour front desk, and spacious rooms.
BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com
Hotel Hecco Deluxe — Located just a few meters from the city’s most prominent pedestrian street (Sarači), Hecco Deluxe is one of the best hotels in Sarajevo if you want to be in the center of all the attractions.
For an even more ✨ deluxe ✨ stay, book one of the upper rooms, which have breathtaking views of Sarajevo’s skyline (and some even have balconies!)
BOOK HERE: Booking.com | Agoda | Hotels.com
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President — This sleek and upscale hotel is in Sarajevo’s city center and offers plenty of plush amenities like complimentary breakfast, parking, turndown service, and room service.
BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com || Hotels.com
Other great hotels in Sarajevo to consider:
🏨 Hotel Sana
🏨 Boutique Bristol
🏨 Hotel Platinum
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APARTMENTS & GUEST HOUSES
Apartments Salim — The 100 sq. m penthouse apartment is located in a quiet yet central neighborhood of the city (it’s only a 5-minute walk to the Latin Bridge) and has everything you need for a comfortable trip.
This place is perfect for families or groups (up to 6 guests!) thanks to the two double rooms and spacious couch, as well as a fully-stocked kitchen and living room.
WHERE TO BOOK: Booking.com | Agoda
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Apartment Milk&Honey — A colorful and charming loft-style apartment that features a quirky modern design, three bedrooms (great for families!), and a great location.
BOOK HERE: Booking.com
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Studio Apartment Theatre View — This cute studio is right in the center of Sarajevo and, like the name says, is across Sarajevo National Theatre. Foodies and art fans will especially love this place because it’s within steps of cafes, restaurants, galleries, museums, and much more.
BOOK HERE: Booking.com | Agoda
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Aparthotel Centar Sarajevo — Nestled in a quiet street on Skenderija (the area right across the river), you’ll have quick access to the center and enjoy the peace and quiet.
This aparthotel is an excellent choice for groups or families, as it offers more than 20 different options, including studios; one-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments; and penthouse suites!
BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com || Hotels.com
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Prenociste Zan — Located right in the middle of Baščaršija (the historical old town), you’ll be in the center of all the action. Zan was one of the guesthouses where we stayed during our trip, and we loved it. The guest house is run by the sweetest mother and son team who also have a cafe downstairs and give the best recommendations. :)
BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com
Other great apartments in Sarajevo to consider:
🏨 Bascarsija’s Sights
🏨 Residence Prime Luxury
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SARAJEVO HOSTELS
Hostel Franz Ferdinand — A cheeky nod to the famous prince who met his demise in this city (or the Scottish rock band ), Franz Ferdinand is one of the best hostels in Sarajevo.
It’s located near the center, has a clean and on-theme design, and, if you’re lucky, they even throw small parties from time to time. The hostel also has a nice variety of shared dorm rooms and private rooms, including 4- and 6-bed dorms, as well as private twin and double rooms.
Travel tip: Be sure to reserve early, as this hotel is popular and gets booked up very quickly!
BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com || Hotels.com
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The Good Place Hostel — Nestled on the main pedestrian street of the city (Ferhadija), this small and cozy hostel is a great choice if you want to make friends (it has just a few beds) or chill out (there’s a huge relaxation area in front of the panoramic windows!)
BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com
Hostel Kucha— This adorable hostel is located in a quiet suburb of the city (just 700 meters from the center) and is one of the most budget-friendly hostels in Sarajevo — single beds start at only $10/night!
Don’t miss the spacious and sunny terrace — a great spot to chill or work for digital nomads!
BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com || Hotels.com
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Pigeon Square Rooms— Cute, cozy, and inviting are just a few words to describe this guesthouse slash hostel. Located in the heart of the Old Town (with a gorgeous view of the Sebilj Fountain and square!), there are plenty of rooms to choose from, including 3- and 4-bed dorm rooms, as well as private double and twin suites.
BOOK HERE: Booking.com | Agoda | Hotels.com
WHERE TO EAT IN SARAJEVO
🍽 Klopa — If you can go to only one restaurant in Sarajevo, let it be this one. This place gets top marks from me thanks to its fantastic service, delicious comfort food, and location (it’s right in the center!)
However, what really made our dining memorable was our waiter, who was friendly, hilarious, and had excellent recommendations. Thanks to his advice, we tried the menu of the day and had the most delicious chicken filet and steak (above photo) at a great price.
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🍽 Mrvica Old Town — One of my favorite brunch places in Sarajevo! Seriously, if you’re the type of person who never wants breakfast or brunch to end… go here. There’s a wide selection of foods and a super cute illustrated menu that shows you exactly what’s included. We ate here three times and have no regrets.
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🍽 Espresso Lab — If you miss your favorite coffee chain from Turkey, you’ll be happy to know that they’ve opened up shop here as well. :)
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🍽 Blind Tiger — What happens when you combine burgers and cocktails? This bar & restaurant! Blind Tiger was highly recommended by virtually every traveler that we met (and a few locals as well!). No wonder it’s a popular hangout spot — make sure to get here early, as it gets very popular in the evenings.
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🍽 Caffe Bar ANDAR — Right in the middle of Sarajevo’s Old Town is this adorable hidden gem. Seriously — walk past and you might miss it!
ANDAR’s owner can be seen here every day, serving traditional Bosnian coffee and drinks to locals and travelers (many of whom are exhausted after a long day of shopping for souvenirs at the nearby kiosks ). If it’s your first time trying Bosnian coffee, she’ll also teach you the proper way to drink it!
While here, you might notice that the cafe is decorated with shoes, shoe materials, and even wooden forms for making shoes. It’s not a coincidence — there’s a heartwarming story behind the cafe and its unique shoe theme, which you can read on the back of their menu.
A sweet history, delightful owner, and a nice cup of Bosnian coffee — you can find it all here at ANDAR. :)
🍽 Fit Bar — During the two weeks we were in Sarajevo, we ate at Fit Bar every other day… That’s how good it is.
Seriously, this is one of the best restaurants in Sarajevo — from the chic modern decor to the delicious and healthy dishes, Fit Bar is it.
Bonus: the menu is so well thought out and has a ton of vegetarian choices, as well as allergy information, macros, and calories. Try the pressed juices, they’re amazing!
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🍽 Buregdzinica Sac — If you want to try an authentic Bosnian burek (or just want to try the best in the city!), then come to Sac. This hole in the wall specializes in burek and there’s always a line. Best of all, there’s about 7 or 8 different fillings to try, including meat, cheese, pumpkin, chicken, and more!
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🍽 Ćevabdžinica Zeljo — Since I just mentioned the best burek in the city, it would only be fair to mention the best cevapi in Sarajevo as well, right?
Located just 150 meters from Sac (above), Ćevabdžinica Zeljo is the most popular cevapi place in Sarajevo — and dare I say, the entire country! Be sure to visit very early in the day (or if you have plenty of time), as this place is always crowded with locals. The biggest portion (15 pieces) costs 10 KM (5 EUR), while the smallest (5 pieces) is only 3.5 KM (less than 2 EUR).
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🍽 Simidçe Sarajevo— If you’re missing the delicious taste of Turkish food, here’s your chance!
As the name says, this recently-opened cafe has simit, as well as the famous Turkish breakfast (🤤), pastries, pizza, and other snacks. Besides stopping for breakfast, it’s also a great place to watch people feed the pigeons, as it’s right in front of the famous Sebilj Fountain.
🍽 Ministry of Cejf — This is one of the most popular cafes in Sarajevo, and it’s no surprise why. A mix of hipster and local, the Ministry of Ćejf offers traditional coffee, soft drinks, and delicious desserts. Be sure to get a spot outside if you can, as it has a prime location for people watching.
Psst… Wondering what this cafe’s quirky name means? Click over to my 17 Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Tips for a quick primer on interesting local words and phrases!
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🍽 Four Rooms of Mrs. Safija —If you’re looking to try haute cuisine in Sarajevo, then this is for you! The Four Rooms of Mrs. Safija could easily pass as a Michelin restaurant thanks to its beautiful atmosphere, creative dishes, and attentive service. If you’re lucky, they might even have a 6-course tasting menu!
Be sure to read the backstory of Mrs. Safija on their website. Although I didn’t quite get the plot, it’s still entertaining and a fun way to spend the time while waiting for your food. ;)
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🍽 Gonul Kahvesi — Similar to Espressolab, Gonul Kahvesi is another Turkish franchise that has made its way to Sarajevo. This was one of our surprise finds, as we serendipitously discovered it while walking back from the Abandoned Bobsleigh Track (mentioned above in Things to Do).
The cafe is located on a hill and offers a fantastic view of the entire skyline — there’s even a useful chart with the names and outlines of each building on the terrace. Besides the view, Gonul Kahvesi has a great choice of coffee, drinks, and snacks, along with friendly employees.
