Complete Sarajevo Travel Guide: What to See in Bosnia & Herzegovina’s Charming Capital

This is going to sound very cliche, but I firmly believe that Sarajevo is one of the most underrated capitals in Europe. 

Its cozy teahouses, an atmosphere of joie de vivre (or should I say, rahatluk 😅), and unique mix of Ottoman and European influences give it a distinct ambiance that pulls you in and makes you want to explore. So if you’re planning to travel to Sarajevo, then I’m certain that you’ll also fall in love with the city! 

This Sarajevo travel guide will show you everything you need to know for a first-time visit, including how to get there, what to do in Sarajevo, where to stay, and much more. 

SARAJEVO CITY GUIDE

Perfect for …
An unexpected weekend getaway – Poignant history – Energetic atmosphere – Coffeehouses and tea houses galore!

Known as the ‘Jerusalem of Europe,’ Sarajevo is a multicultural city where Islam, Christianity, and Judaism co-mingled for centuries. 

Thanks to its central location in Bosnia & Herzegovina, Sarajevo is an excellent base to start or end your trip. For example, it’s only a 2-hour journey to one of Bosnia’s most popular destinations, Mostar, and there are more than a dozen day trips available from Sarajevo (check out this post’s last section for the full list!) 

However, it’s totally understandable if you decide to stay in Sarajevo. The city’s calm and pleasant atmosphere is partially influenced by its numerous cafes and tea houses. Is there anything better than ordering a nice cup of Bosnian coffee and watching the world go by?

 I’ll let you answer that question.  😉

HOW TO GET TO SARAJEVO 

The city’s central location means that  you have many options in traveling to Sarajevo, especially from neighboring Balkan countries like Serbia, Croatia, Montenegro, and more.  

FROM NEIGHBORING COUNTRIES

From Serbia 

The most common way to travel from Serbia to Bosnia is between Belgrade to Sarajevo. If you’re planning to travel from one capital to the other, there are a few ways to do so:

BUS – There’s a direct bus from a few different companies, including Flixbus, and the journey takes about 8 hours (not counting time at the border).   

If you prefer not sitting on the bus all day, you can also take a 3-hour direct bus from Belgrade to Bijeljina (a city near the border), stay overnight, and take another 5-hour bus to Sarajevo. 

Pssst — If you stop in Bijeljina, be sure to visit Ethno Village Stanisici, an awesome village complex with traditional Bosnian houses from all over the country! 

CAR – The driving distance between Belgrade and Sarajevo is 300 km (186 mi), and takes about 5 to 6 hours depending on traffic. 

PLANE – Finally, there is a direct flight from Belgrade to Sarajevo. It’s less than an hour and served by Air Serbia. Check airline tickets from Serbia to Bosnia here →

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From Montenegro 

BUS – There are both direct and indirect buses from Montenegro to Sarajevo: the direct buses take about 8 hours (plus border crossing time), while the indirect buses typically stop in Mostar. 

CAR – Traveling from Kotor to Sarajevo by car takes about 4.5 to 5.5 hours, depending on traffic and border crossing time. 

PLANE – There are flights from both of Montenegro’s airports — Tivat and Podgorica — although they are not direct.  

FROM ELSEWHERE 

PLANE — Sarajevo is the country’s biggest airport and, as such, has many connections to European cities and beyond. There’s even an airport shuttle bus that will take you straight to Bascarsija (the city center) for 5 KM (2.50 EUR) — the timetable can be found on the airport’s official Facebook page.

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BUS — If you’re taking a bus to Bosnia & Herzegovina, there’s a good chance you’ll end up here. :) 

However, it’s important to note that there are two bus stations in the city: the main one near the center is called Sarajevo Central Bus Station, while the other one is on the southern outskirts and called Istočno Sarajevo Bus Station. 

TRAIN — The city has its own train station called the Sarajevo Main Railway Station (Glavna željeznička stanica u Sarajevu). Even better, it’s just a few meters away from the central bus station! 

TRAVEL TIP: Be aware of taxi scams! Similar to most other countries in the Balkans, it’s best to watch out for unscrupulous taxi drivers. We arrived in Sarajevo via a (very long) bus ride from Belgrade and were very tired. 

Right outside the bus station we saw a taxi driver and, trying our luck, we asked how much it would cost. He held up three fingers and said tri very quickly, which was very suspicious. To put it in perspective, 3 KM is about 1.5 EUR and very cheap for a taxi trip from a bus station on the outskirts to the city center. When we got in the car, I immediately prepared the 3 KM and, upon seeing this, the taxi driver shook his head and said no no, thirty (15 EUR)… even though seconds ago, he was saying three and thinking we were clueless tourists. 😅

TRANSPORTATION & GETTING AROUND SARAJEVO 

Sarajevo has all of the typical comforts of a capital city, including a comprehensive public transportation system. You can get around Sarajevo using a variety of methods, including buses, trolleys, taxis, and even the adorable trams that zigzag around the city. 

Here’s a quick primer on public transport in Sarajevo:

TRAM

Taking the tram is one of the best (and easiest!) ways to get around Sarajevo. Although there are a handful of tram lines, the most important one for tourists is tram line #3. 

The route goes from east to west and covers nearly all of the important stops. If you’re planning to travel to the railway or bus station, tram lines #1 and #4 are also helpful in getting there. 

Some important things to note: A single tram ticket costs 1.80 KM (less than 1 EUR) if you purchase it from the driver onboard, or 1.60 KM at a newsstand kiosk. Be sure to carry coins and bills, since credit cards aren’t accepted. The ticket must be validated at one of those little boxes near the front of the tram, and is valid for 1 hour — so feel free to ride around for a while and enjoy the scenery. 😉

CABLE CAR

Last but certainly not least, Sarajevo has its own cable car system! There’s only one route, which takes you from Sarajevo’s city center to Mt. Trebevic. The ride takes about 9 minutes to reach the top, and uncovers beautiful views of the city’s skyline. The price is 15 KM (7.5 EUR) for a one-way ticket or 20 KM (10 EUR) for a round-trip ticket. 

I recommend buying a one-way ticket to the top and walking back down with a stop at the Abandoned Bobsleigh Track (Check out What To Do in Sarajevo for the full info!) 

WHAT TO DO IN SARAJEVO

Sarajevo is, in a sense, similar to other Balkan cities like Novi Sad (Serbia) or Plovdiv (Bulgaria). Although fairly compact, it offers the perfect mix of cultural landmarks, museums, touristy things to do, and a thriving cafe and foodie scene. 

If you’re still wondering what to see in Sarajevo, be sure to add the following places to your itinerary! 

Wander through Baščaršija 

One of the best ways to familiarize yourself with Sarajevo is to take a walk through Baščaršija (photo above), the city’s cultural soul and historical center. There’s a reason why I recommend doing this first (it’s #1 on this list!) before you move onto the other tourist attractions in Sarajevo :) 

The area was originally the foundation for Sarajevo back in the 1400s, and, after a few centuries, Baščaršija is now a delightful mishmash of cobblestone alleys, hammams, traditional buildings, and hans (traditional inns). It’s the perfect place to hunt for a souvenir or two, or simply get lost amid the sounds of merchants haggling and clanking of coppersmiths. 

Be Dazzled at Sarajevo’s City Hall (Gradska Vijećnica Sarajevo)

Just a few minutes south of Baščaršija is a gorgeous orange and yellow building called the Vijećnica, or none other than Sarajevo City Hall! 

Most of the city halls I’ve encountered on my trips are gorgeous from their exterior, but that’s typically all that you can do with them — just look and take photos from the outside.😅

However, Sarajevo’s City Hall is much more interactive because you can go inside! It’s definitely worth paying the 10 KM (5 EUR) entry fee, as you’ll get access to the art gallery upstairs and a small exhibit on WWI on the basement floor. Of course, don’t forget to marvel at the building’s eclectic mix of neo-Moorish, romanticist, and historicist influences. 

The building was part of many important moments in history. In fact, Franz Ferdinand visited the city hall with his wife Sofia between the first and second assassination attempt on his life, which would later cause World War I. 

Nearly a century later, the building would be destroyed by shelling and a fire during the Siege of Sarajevo in 1992. Although some locals and librarians who worked at the city hall tried to salvage what was left, more than a million books, manuscripts, and other valuable publications were unfortunately destroyed.

After the war, the city hall was in disrepair for many years until 2014, when it was restored to its former glory and reopened to locals and visitors. Despite its hardships, the city hall is a symbol of hope and resilience for many Sarajevans.   

Learn About the City’s Heartbreaking History

Although Sarajevo is an energetic and thriving city these days, it wasn’t always like this. During the 1990s, the city was subjected to horrible events that resulted in the Siege of Sarajevo. Over the course of nearly 4 years, the city faced constant shelling, sniper fire, and other atrocities before a ceasefire in 1996. 

Although the Bosnian War was more than three decades ago, there are still stark reminders around the city, from apartment buildings with bullet hotels to ‘Sarajevo roses’ (marks in the sidewalk filled with red resin, where mortar shells exploded). 

Likewise, there are a few museums to learn more about Bosnia’s history. The first three places can be done in a day, as they’re within a short walking distance from each other. 

📍 Museum Of Crimes Against Humanity And Genocide — This was the museum we chose to visit first and, to be honest, it was a very emotional experience. The Museum of Genocide is a collection of items that came from the war, including the personal belongings of victims, army mementos, and stories from survivors. 

📍 Galerija 11/07/95 — This museum/memorial/art gallery is more visual, with photographs and videos that specifically focus on the Srebrenica genocide (on July 11, 1995 — hence the name). 

📍 War Childhood Museum — One of the newest museums in Sarajevo is the War Childhood Museum, which is similar to the first museum but is told from the children who lived through the Bosnian War. 

📍 Tunnel of Hope — This museum / historical object is a bit farther than the other museums (it’s on outskirts of Sarajevo), but still worth a visit. Originally constructed at the beginning of the war, the Tunnel of Hope was the city’s only link to the outside world and used to funnel food, medical supplies, weapons, and other items to locals. 

Likewise, one of the most powerful ways to learn more about a place or event is by interacting with someone who has personally been there. Since the war was in the 1990’s, nearly every Sarajevo guided tour will have someone who personally lived through the war. Here are some excursions to consider: 

Times of Misfortune Half Day Tour in Sarajevo
Sarajevo: Bosnian War and Fall of Yugoslavia Tour 
Tunnel War Tour 

Abandoned Olympic Bobsleigh Track 
Last but certainly not least is my personal favorite: Sarajevo’s Abandoned Bobsleigh Track! If you’re a fan of urbex (urban exploration), street art, or just unusual places, then be sure to add this spot to your itinerary. 

Did you know that Sarajevo was the host of the 1984 winter Olympics? There were many new venues and tracks built for the occasion, including the bobsleigh and luge track. The track was used for various events up until 1991, when the Bosnian War broke out. 

After the war ended, the entire area was reclaimed by nature and had overgrown branches (it is, after all, near the side of a mountain!), as well as various war wounds (i.e. holes from shelling). In 2014 the city conducted an extensive de-mining operation and the track became a canvas for local graffiti and mural artists.

If you’re wondering how to visit the abandoned bobsled track in Sarajevo, I recommend buying a one-way ticket on the cable car up to the top and making your way down Mt. Trebevic. Be sure to budget about 2 to 3 hours for the whole trip (especially if you’re like me and stop every 3 minutes to take a photo 😅). 

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WHERE TO EAT IN SARAJEVO

🍽 Klopa — If you can go to only one restaurant in Sarajevo, let it be this one. This place gets top marks from me thanks to its fantastic service, delicious comfort food, and location (it’s right in the center!)

However, what really made our dining memorable was our waiter, who was friendly, hilarious, and had excellent recommendations. Thanks to his advice, we tried the menu of the day and had the most delicious chicken filet and steak (above photo) at a great price. 

🍽 Mrvica Old Town — One of my favorite brunch places in Sarajevo! Seriously, if you’re the type of person who never wants breakfast or brunch to end… go here. There’s a wide selection of foods and a super cute illustrated menu that shows you exactly what’s included. We ate here three times and have no regrets. :)

🍽 Espresso Lab — If you miss your favorite coffee chain from Turkey, you’ll be happy to know that they’ve opened up shop here as well. :) 

🍽 Blind Tiger — What happens when you combine burgers and cocktails? This bar & restaurant! Blind Tiger was highly recommended by virtually every traveler that we met (and a few locals as well!). No wonder it’s a popular hangout spot — make sure to get here early, as it gets very popular in the evenings.

🍽 Caffe Bar ANDAR — Right in the middle of Sarajevo’s Old Town is this adorable hidden gem. Seriously — walk past and you might miss it! 

ANDAR’s owner can be seen here every day, serving traditional Bosnian coffee and drinks to locals and travelers (many of whom are exhausted after a long day of shopping for souvenirs at the nearby kiosks 😅). If it’s your first time trying Bosnian coffee, she’ll also teach you the proper way to drink it! 

While here, you might notice that the cafe is decorated with shoes, shoe materials, and even wooden forms for making shoes. It’s not a coincidence — there’s a heartwarming story behind the cafe and its unique shoe theme, which you can read on the back of their menu. 

A sweet history, delightful owner, and a nice cup of Bosnian coffee — you can find it all here at ANDAR. :)