SARAJEVO OR MOSTAR: Which City Should You Visit in Bosnia & Herzegovina?

As two of the most popular cities in Bosnia & Herzegovina, both Sarajevo and Mostar are visited by thousands of tourists every year. Offering culture, impressive architectural wonders, and striking natural beauty, how could anyone resist these two charming destinations?

If you only have a few days in Bosnia and Herzegovina, you might be considering these two cities and wondering, should I visit Sarajevo or Mostar?

You’ve come to the right place, as that’s exactly what this guide will cover!

During our trip through Bosnia & Herzegovina, we spent extensive time in Sarajevo and Mostar and, therefore, had the chance to experience the unique charms of both cities. I created this guide in the hopes that it’ll make it easier for you to choose the perfect city when you travel to Bosnia.

SARAJEVO

WHY CHOOSE SARAJEVO?

🏙️ One of Europe’s most underrated capitals
📸 Plenty of things for a jam-packed itinerary
🚞 Excellent base for day trips
📚 Where history comes alive
🍝 An amazing food and drink scene
🏛️ The capital where three cultures meet

One of Europe’s most underrated capitals

When you think of European capitals, what comes to mind? Paris, London, or Madrid probably make the top three, or perhaps Prague, Athens, or Oslo might make a mention.

While those are all wonderful capitals, most people often overlook the Balkans, and especially Bosnia and Herzegovina. Fear not, Sarajevo is the perfect spot to get acquainted with the country!

If you read other blogs about Bosnia and Herzegovina, you’ve probably come across the phrase that Sarajevo is one of Europe’s most underrated capitals — and it’s true!

Although it sounds cliche, Sarajevo is such a hidden gem. From the melodic ezan (call to prayer) breaking through the morning silence to the meandering riverside promenades, charismatic cafes, and locals chattering over fresh burek, Sarajevo is a great choice if you’re looking to get away from the tourist crowds and try something new.

So Many Things to Do!

Now that we’ve established why you should visit Sarajevo, let’s check out what to do. :)

Whether you have one day in Sarajevo or an entire week, I’m sure your itinerary will be filled with plenty of interesting things to see and do. If you’re deciding between visiting Sarajevo or Mostar, I’d like to add that Sarajevo has a slight edge as there are more things to do here than in Mostar.

Start in the historical center of the city and see the beautiful Sebilj fountain (above) before walking through the center to marvel at the architecture found along Ferhadija Street. Add a visit to the Sarajevo Clock Tower and Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, along with a bit of shopping at the underground marketplace known as Bezistan.

One of the best attractions in Sarajevo (seriously, it’s a must-see!) is Vijećnica, the Sarajevo City Hall. This vibrant yellow building has some of the most gorgeous mosaic work found inside, as well as a nod to Moorish architecture design. Don’t forget to visit the basement to see a mini museum!

Another popular thing to do in Sarajevo is to take the cable car up to Mount Trebević, which offers a lovely 8-minute ride complete with a panoramic view of the city.

Are you a fan of urbex? Definitely make sure to check out the Abandoned Bobsleigh Track, which begins near the cable car station at the top of Trebević, and make your way back to the center of Sarajevo. Along the way, you’ll see how the track became the ‘canvas’ for colorful and eclectic street art (and enjoy a nice workout!)

Excellent Base for Day Trips

After reading the above point, you’ve probably noticed that there are lots of things to do in Sarajevo. However, if you’re here for a while and want to go beyond the city limits, you’ll be happy to hear that there are dozens of places to visit on a day trip!

You can see the full list in my 20 Day Trips From Sajarevo, but to sum it up, you can see the mysterious pyramids in Visoko, marvel at the beautiful facade of the Fanciscan monastery in Kraljeva Sutjeska (which looks more like a castle than a religious building), or go deep underground to tour the legendary bunker of Yugoslavian leader Josip Broz Tito.

For something a little more outdoors, enjoy hiking through the stunning Sutjeska National Park, Mt. Vranica (known as the ‘Bosnian Swiss Alps’!), or Rama Lake.

Of course, don’t forget to sprinkle some cultural attractions as well: Sarajevo is just an hour away from Ethno Village Čardaci, which features traditional Bosnian houses, and three hours away from the beautiful waterfalls and watermills of Jajce and Mlinčići (in the photo above).

While Mostar also has a few day trip opportunities, it’s not as centrally-located as Sarajevo and, as such, you’d need to spend more time driving to other destinations (especially if you’re going north!).

Where History Unfolded

If you’re a history buff, Sarajevo is the place to be. The city is packed with historical landmarks and places that changed the course of history, as well as relics of bygone civilizations.

Many people still associate Bosnia & Herzegovina with the Balkan Wars of the 1990s, and despite happening more than 30 years ago, evidence of the war’s horrors are still present to this day. As you walk around the city, you’ll notice some buildings are still pockmarked with bullet holes, as well as ‘Sarajevo roses’ filling the holes in the concrete where mortar shells exploded.

One of the best ways to learn more about the tragic events that unfolded in Bosnia is to take a tour with a local guide, many of whom personally lived through the war themselves. Here are some excursions to consider:

If you prefer to go at your own pace, there are also a handful of museums that focus on the Balkan Wars, including the War Childhood Museum, the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity, and Gallery 11/07/95.

Finally, there’s also the very unique War Hostel, which feels like it’s one half museum, one half hostel. The interior is decorated with war memorabilia and is run by a local known as 01, whose family experienced the war firsthand (in the same building where the current hostel is!).

While the Bosnian War was the most recent event to befall the city, another moment that defined history was the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand — which happened right near Sarajevo’s center. There are a few different ways to learn more, from taking the Sarajevo 1914 walking tour; walking across Latin Bridge, where the events unfolded; and checking out the nearby Museum of Sarajevo 1878–1918, which has a section that details the assassination.

Last but certainly not least, I can’t talk about Sarajevo without mentioning its long history as part of the Ottoman Empire! There are still dozens of relics from this period in time, including the Old Bazaar (Bascarsija), a caravanserai (roadside inn) called Morića Han, and the historical Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque. There’s an excellent free walking tour that you can do on your own called Ottoman Empire Landmarks Walk.

An amazing up-and-coming food scene

From third wave coffee spots to whimsically charming restaurants, bars, and local haunts, Sarajevo is a paradise for foodies!

To give you a few examples, here are my favorites:

🌿The Singing Nettle (Žara iz duvara) — Farm-to-table style dishes with a focus on local flavors. Bonus: the menu is vegan- and vegetarian-friendly!

🍝 Klopa — Traditional European food with great service. As a bonus, the menu changes frequently!

🍔 Blind Tiger — Fun and rambunctious atmosphere, known for their delicious burgers and cocktails.

🥗 Fit Bar — My absolute favorite restaurant in Sarajevo! Mouthwatering dishes that are delicious and healthy!

☕️ Teahouse Džirlo for tea + Ministry of Ćejf for coffee + Caffe Bar ANDAR for both — all three are delightful spots to sit down and enjoy a cup of your favorite drink (whatever that may be 😋).

When compared to Sarajevo, Mostar is mostly focused on traditional food like cevapi, grilled meats and veggies, and local seafood dishes.

A Cultural Treasure — Where East Meets West

Sarajevo is often called the ‘European Jerusalem’ and there’s a reason why: it was a strategic crossroads in history for many cultures, including East (Ottoman and Islamic), West (European, Christian, and Judaism) and everything in between.

Although hundreds of years have come and gone, there are still plenty of hints from past and present cultures. In fact, Sarajevo used to be the first city where a Catholic church, mosque, and synagogue were in the same neighborhood — and all are standing in the same spot today!

As mentioned above, some of the most prominent are those of the Ottoman empire, whose rule over Bosnia & Herzegovina lasted for over 400 years.

Jewish culture was also very prominent around Sarajevo, whose history goes back to the first Jews arriving in the late 1400s from the Iberian Peninsula. Before World War II, there were about 10,000 Jews living in Sarajevo (about 10% of the total population), and many important relics survive to this day.

To learn more about the Jewish culture in Sarajevo, you can visit the Jewish Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina (which is located in the oldest synagogue in the country!) or take the Jewish Heritage guided tour. There’s also an interesting Uncovering Islam tour, as well as the aptly-named Eat Pray Love tour that talks about all of the city’s cultures in detail (along with some delicious local delicacies!)

LOOKING FOR MORE SARAJEVO RESOURCES?

🗺️ Sarajevo City Travel Guide – A travel guide to Sarajevo that has everything you need to know, including what to do, where to stay, transportation, restaurants, and more.
🗺️ Sarajevo Day Trips – Have a few extra days in Sarajevo? This post has more than 20+ day trip options from Sarajevo!

MOSTAR

WHY CHOOSE MOSTAR?

🚗 Can be visited on a day trip from Croatia
📆Very easy to see in one day
📸Home to a UNESCO World Heritage Site
💰It’s slightly cheaper than Sarajevo

An easy day trip from Croatia

If you’re traveling from Croatia to Bosnia and Herzegovina, there’s a pretty big chance that Mostar will be your first stop.

In fact, it’s no secret that Mostar is the most popular day tour from Dubrovnik, especially when you consider that it’s budget friendly (most tours are around $50 to 80 USD per person) and it’s less than 3 hours away!

Taking a tour is an easy and stress-free way to see one of Bosnia’s most popular cities. There are tons of operators (plenty of availability!) and tours for every style and budget. Here are some of the most popular day trips to Mostar:

Mostar is bite-sized

And by that, I mean Mostar can easily be seen in one day. I’ve even written a blog post on this exact topic — click to check it out! 😉

Compared to Sarajevo, Mostar is more compact (everything is within walking distance) and can be seen in a few hours. It’s a better choice for people who are short on time but still want to see Bosnia & Herzegovina. If you have a few extra hours, you can also tack on a quick visit to the famous Blagaj Tekija (Dervish House) just a few kilometers away. Check out my Blagaj travel guide for inspiration. :)

If you have more than a few hours (i.e. staying overnight), then you’re really in for a treat: the daytrip crowds typically disperse after sundown, and Mostar becomes even more accessible — and less crowded!

Home to one of four UNESCO Sites in Bosnia

One of the most popular reasons to visit Mostar is, without a doubt, the Stari Most (Old Bridge). It also happens to be one of four UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Bosnia & Herzegovina! Interestingly enough, Sarajevo is listed as a candidate that was also nominated to UNESCO, but is still on the tentative list.

(If you’re interested, the other three are the Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge, Stećci Medieval Tombstones, and the Janj forest). Mostar is home to one of the most unique cultural legends in the country: the Old Bridge divers!

This tradition goes all the way back to the 1600s, where local boys would jump off the bridge as a rite of passage. Although this ritual is long gone, there are still professional bridge divers that make the 20-something meter jump every day.

Typically, the Mostar bridge divers will walk around with a hat and ask the crowd for tips and, when they reach around 50 EUR, one of the divers will perform their famous act. Depending on the season, these bridge divers can make multiple jumps in a day. If you’re interested, you can also do the dive — just stop by the Mostar Divers Club to sign up.

Price is comparably the same

If you’re a budget-conscious traveler, you’ll typically find better deals in Mostar than Sarajevo (especially outside of the summer season!)

Despite the city’s popularity, Mostar is slightly cheaper when it comes to food, accommodations, and transportation.

LOOKING FOR MORE MOSTAR RESOURCES?

🗺️ One Day in Mostar
🗺️ 15 Coolest Places to stay in Mostar
🗺️ How to Visit the Blagaj Tekkia on a day trip from Mostar

Should you travel to Sarajevo or Mostar?

BOTH MOSTAR & SARAJEVO

How about a third option? 😉

If you’re doing a multi-country Balkan trip and/or are flexible with your itinerary, consider visiting both places! Let me convince you with a few points :)

Very easy and convenient connection

Traveling from Sarajevo to Mostar is fairly fast, as it’s only 2 hours by car and 2.5 to 3 hours by train. Best of all, there are direct connections via bus and train, so you can easily fit the trip in your schedule. Speaking of which…

A Gorgeous journey

… Whether it’s by rental car, bus, or train, the trip between Sarajevo to Mostar is beautiful! Seriously, this is one of the most scenic journeys in Europe — and you definitely won’t regret it once you see the bright blue lakes, jagged mountains, and panoramas opening up right before your eyes.

If you’re planning to visit both cities, I wrote about traveling between Mostar to Sarajevo (or vice versa) — click here to check it out (and see the photos to get inspired)!

Fits perfectly in a Balkan trip

If you’re planning to travel across the Balkans and visit multiple countries at once, a trip between Sarajevo and Mostar will fit perfectly into your itinerary. For example, you could fly into Zagreb and make your way down Croatia (Zadar, Split, Dubrovnik) before crossing into Bosnia & Herzegovina, driving to Mostar, and stopping in Sarajevo on your way to Serbia and beyond. Best of all, you can do this trip on public transportation!

If you have a little extra time (and/or are renting a car), you can also visit some interesting stops along the way, such as Tito’s Bunker, a beautiful emerald-colored lake, a town that’s famous for its wood carvings, and more. You can find more information under the ‘Sarajevo to Mostar By Car’ section in my blog post.

That’s all for now — I hope this blog post helps you decide where to go, whether that’s Sarajevo, Mostar, or both!