The Ultimate Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide: What to Do, Eat, Stay, and more!
Nestled in the heart of the Balkans, Bosnia & Herzegovina has often been overlooked as a tourism destination in favor of its more popular neighbors (like Croatia and Montenegro).
However, thanks to recent developments and new transportation links, travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina is quickly picking up — and for good reason! Bosnia is a treasure trove of beautiful nature, a unique blend of diverse cultures, and vibrant cities.
Start your journey off in Sarajevo, the city where east meets west, before taking a scenic journey to Mostar, whose Old Bridge is the spot where the famous bridge diving ritual takes place. For something a little off the beaten path, visit the country’s highest village, Lukomir, to meet locals, or enjoy a hike through BiH’s four national parks.
But that’s not all! There are so many things to do and places to visit in Bosnia: venture underground to the mysterious underground bunker that was created by Yugoslavia’s longest-serving leader; go skiing on the same slopes that hosted the Olympic Games in 1984; or catch some sun in Bosnia’s 22-kilometer stretch of coastline.
No matter what you plan to do, my travel guide to Bosnia & Herzegovina will help you out! This country guide is packed with helpful information, from travel requirements to Bosnia travel tips like how to get around, when to visit, what to do, accommodations, language, and much more.
If you’re ready to discover the country that has been at the crossroads of east and west for centuries, then welcome to this Bosnia travel guide!
TRAVEL TO BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA: THE BASICS
Do You Need a Visa for Bosnia & Herzegovina?
Bosnia and Herzegovina has a very lax visa policy and allows travelers from almost 100 countries to stay in the country for up to 90 days (within a 180 day time frame).
Here’s a quick overview of the maximum number of days each citizen can stay without a visa:
🇺🇸 USA: 90 days
🇨🇦 Canada: 90 days
🇦🇺 Australia: 90 days
🇪🇺 European Union: 90 days
For more information and to see if your country needs a visa, check out the iVisa page for Bosnia and Herzegovina!
Tourist Registration & Tax
Unlike Bosnia’s neighbors, there’s no need to register yourself as a tourist (a la Serbia and their white card system), nor do you have to pay a tourist tax (like in Montenegro).
Electricity & Plugs
Just like the rest of Europe, Bosnia & Herzegovina uses the type F plug (which is also compatible with C and E plugs) and has a standard voltage of 230 V. I have used these adapters in more than 30 countries and highly recommend them!
BEST TIME TO VISIT BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
Unlike most other countries, there really isn’t a ‘best time’ to visit Bosnia & Herzegovina per se — because each season has something unique!
For example, winter in Bosnia means epic opportunities to go skiing or snowboarding in Jahorina, while summer is a favorite for those who are looking to go hiking or explore the country’s ubiquitous nature. Traveling between seasons gives you an opportunity to enjoy Bosnia without crowds, especially at popular destinations like Mostar.
Best weather: May through June and September to mid-October
Peak tourist season in Bosnia & Herzegovina: July and August
Hottest months: July and August
Coldest months: December through February
Seasons in Bosnia & Herzegovina
Here’s what you can expect for each season:
Spring: March – May
If you’re in search of nice weather, low crowds, and lovely foliage, traveling to Bosnia in the spring is your best bet! While it may be a bit too cold to swim in the sea (Neum) or a bit chilly to hike up those mountain peaks, spring is an excellent time to walk around popular destinations like Mostar and Sarajevo. You’ll avoid the groups of crowds and have the place almost to yourself.
Summer: June – August
Not surprisingly, summer makes for the hottest and most crowded months in the country. This can be especially seen in Mostar, daytrippers from Croatia make their way around the city in large crowds. The best way to beat the crowds is to stay overnight in Mostar, as you’ll have the city all to yourself in the evening and early morning!
One of Bosnia’s biggest events, the Sarajevo Film Festival, is held every August. Travelers and film buffs from around the world flock to the capital for one week to see the latest and greatest in cinema.
Of course, Bosnia’s 22-kilometer coastline is also a hotspot: Neum is the perfect summer destination!
Fall: September – November
Depending on the weather, many places around Bosnia may still be warm, even into the autumn season. Fall is a great time to go hiking and see the beautiful autumn foliage, as well as explore other parts of the country (i.e. Jajce, Visoko, Jahorina, etc).
Since fewer people visit Bosnia in the fall, you’ll also score great deals on accommodations and tours.
Winter: December – February
Last but certainly not least, we have winter! Bosnia & Herzegovina turns into a winter wonderland come December, and you can expect cold and some snow in the later part of the season. This is an excellent time to strap on those skis (or snowboard) and enjoy more than 130 kilometers of trails at Bosnia’s winter resorts.
Surprisingly, winter in Bosnia is also full of fun festivals and holidays, including Christmas, New Year’s, Orthodox Christmas, and the Sarajevo Winter Festival (February to March).
Overall, the best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina for pleasant temperatures and low crowds are May and September, as they’re just outside of summer and hover around 15 to 22 C (60 to 72 F).
How much time do I need in Bosnia & Herzegovina?
Thanks to Bosnia & Herzegovina’s compact size and convenient transportation, one week is enough to get a good idea of the country without rushing your trip.
Most people start in Sarajevo, which can easily be done in 2 or 3 days. Use your first day to visit the main sights (like the City Hall, Bascarsija, Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, etc), and then take a cable car up to Trebević mountain on the second day to check out the abandoned bobsled track.
Sarajevo is an excellent ‘base camp’ for days trips as well! The most popular day trips include Jajce, Mostar/Blagaj, and Visegrad, or check out my full list of 20+ day trips from Sarajevo blog post to get inspired.
If you’re on a shorter itinerary, no worries — there are plenty of day tours that leave from Sarajevo as well. Check out some of the most popular below:
From Sajarevo, you can take one of the most beautiful journeys in the world to Mostar (seriously!) and spend 1 to 2 days here. If you prefer slow travel, you can split Mostar into 2 days: the first day to explore Mostar’s tourist attractions, and the second day to take a quick day trip to Blagaj and the mystic Dervish House, which is well-worth a visit!
That leaves you with two or three days for extra trips: you could go south and visit the beach town of Neum, go hiking in Sutjeska National Park (the largest NP in Bosnia!), or see the mysterious pyramids in Visoko.
Of course, a week is just a suggestion — the sky’s the limit if you really want to get to know this fantastic country! ;)
SAFETY IN BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
Before traveling to any country, it’s important to be street smart and do some research about any potential dangers. With that being said, you might be wondering, How safe is Bosnia & Herzegovina?
To which I reply: very safe!
To be honest, I felt completely at ease while traveling around Bosnia & Herzegovina. We walked around at night without any issues and always found the locals to be friendly and helpful.
The most serious threat in Bosnia & Herzegovina (especially if you’re going hiking!) are the thousands of landmines scattered in rural areas. While the government has made an effort to clear many mines that were left from the war, it is still highly recommended to avoid going off the beaten path. If you want to learn more, I wrote about this topic in my 17 Bosnia & Herzegovina travel tips.
Otherwise, there are only two other ‘scams’ in Bosnia and Herzegovina:
TAXI DRIVERS
Similar to most other countries in the Balkans, it’s best to watch out for unscrupulous taxi drivers. We arrived in Sarajevo via a (very long) bus ride from Belgrade and were very tired. Right outside the bus station we saw a taxi driver and, trying our luck, we asked how much it would cost. He held up three fingers and said tri very quickly, which was very suspicious.
To put it in perspective, 3 KM is about 1.5 EUR and very cheap for a taxi trip from a bus station on the outskirts to the city center. When we got in the car, I immediately prepared the 3 KM and, upon seeing this, the taxi driver shook his head and said no no, thirty KM (15 EUR)… even though seconds ago, he was saying three and thinking we were clueless tourists. 😅
To avoid having any problems with taxis, you can use two tried-and-true methods: Ask the taxi driver to turn on their meter, or best of all, ask your accommodation to call a taxi.
PICKPOCKETS
The second concern is to be aware of pickpockets and keep valuable objects out of sight.
While we were trying to find our apartment, a woman in front of us had her wallet snatched from her hand (she was exiting a store and putting back change). Her husband ran after the thief, who proceeded to take all of the paper bills out and threw the wallet to the ground before escaping. Although it’s ironic how both the taxi driver and wallet incident happened on the same day (actually, within an hour of each other 😅), that was the first and last time we encountered any issues in Bosnia.
LANGUAGE IN BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
The official language in B&H is Bosnian. Although it’s very similar to its neighbors (Croatian and Serbian), Bosnian has more loanwords from Turkish and Arabic.
Many people speak English, especially in places that cater to tourism (i.e. hotels and accommodations, bus stations in cities like Mostar or Sarajevo, some cafes, and so on). Likewise, many menus will have English printed alongside each dish.
Phrasebook cheat sheet
Bosnian is a very colorful language, which means you might run into interesting phrases or expressions (many that don’t have literal translations into English!)
For example, many types of stores and restaurants have a special name depending on what they serve:
– Ćevabdžinica — A food establishment that specializes in ćevapi (a type of grilled sausage)
– Buregdžinica — A food establishment that specializes in burek (a flaky pastry with filling)
– Aščinica — A restaurant that serves traditional Bosnian food (like soups and pies)
Want to know even more interesting and untranslatable words (like Cejf)? Check out point #14 in my 17 Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Tips!
Likewise, here are a few phrases to memorize:
Yes: Da
No: Ne
Hello: Dobar Dan (Good Day) or Zdravo (Hi)
Please: Molim
Thank you: Hvala
No problem: Nema na čemu
Sorry: Oprostite
SIM cards in Bosnia & Herzegovina
Dealing with SIM cards in Bosnia and Herzegovina is a very simple and (for a lack of a better word) unfussy event. There are three main operators: BH Telecom, Mtel (also known as m:tel), and Eronet.
All you need to do is visit one of the three operators (or a newsstand kiosk!), ask for a SIM card, and voila. I didn’t even need to hand over a passport to register the card!
The coverage on all three operators is fairly good, although I didn’t have internet while traveling through a few villages (between Sarajevo and Jajce) and way up in the forest.
Money in Bosnia & Herzegovina
The official currency in Bosnia and Herzegovina is called the convertible mark. It’s shortened as KM and is pegged to the Euro — 1 EUR is about 1.955 KM (although it’s easier to round up to 2 😉).
Since Bosnia & Herzegovina is still an emerging economy for tourism, credit cards can be hit or miss. Cards are usually accepted at larger establishments like hotels and some restaurants, but it’s always better to double check ahead of time. Check out my 17 Bosnia Travel Tips (points 4 through 7) for more information.
When traveling through Bosnia & Herzegovina, I highly recommend keeping cash with you at all times, as you’ll often hear, Sorry, we don’t take cards very often. 😅
Another option is to keep a stack of smaller Euro bills (such as 1, 5, 10, and 20 bills), as some places may accept them in lieu of KMs.
TRAVEL TIP: If you’re low on paper cash or don’t want to pay high ATM fees, you can book some things ahead of time, like tours through GetYourGuide and accommodations on Hotels.com and Booking.com (be sure to check the fine print about payment!)
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How expensive is Bosnia & Herzegovina?
If Bosnia and Herzegovina is just one stop on your Balkan itinerary, you may be pleasantly surprised at how budget-friendly the country is — especially if you’re coming from more expensive Balkan neighbors like Croatia or Slovenia.
Here’s how much you can expect to spend per day (per person) depending on your travel style:
💵 Budget travel —Staying in hostels, traveling via bus or train, eating at local cafes or buying groceries. Hostels typically cost between 10 to 15 EUR (dorm room), while a typical dish at a local establishment is around 3 to 6 EUR.
TOTAL: 13 to 20 EUR / day
💰 Mid-range travel — Staying at a nice apartment or hotel, eating at restaurants and cafes, using the bus and/or renting a car for a few days. A private hotel room or apartment typically starts at 20 to 30 EUR and goes up depending on location and quality. A typical meal (with drinks) costs around 4 to 10 EUR per person.
TOTAL: 30 to 50 EUR / day
💸 Luxury travel — Staying in high-end hotels or apartments, eating in top-rated restaurants, renting a car or using a transfer service.
TOTAL: 75+ EUR / day
As mentioned, these prices are per person and can easily be much less if you split it with someone else (i.e. traveling as a couple, friends, or family).
Likewise, the prices are mainly based on tourist-oriented cities like Sarajevo and Mostar — if you’re visiting off the beaten path-type of places, you can expect to pay 20 to 40% less, especially in the off season.
TRANSPORTATION IN BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA BY AIR
Bosnia and Herzegovina has a fair amount of airports across major cities, including Sarajevo (SJJ), Tuzla (TZL), Banja Luka (BNX), and Mostar (OMO).
Sarajevo Airport serves the majority of routes, with connections to cities all across Europe (Germany, Norway, Sweden, London, etc) and the Middle East (Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, the UAE, Turkey). If you’re flying into Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sarajevo will most likely be your primary choice.
Budget-friendly travelers will also be happy to hear that there are a handful of low-cost and budget airlines that fly to Bosnia, including Eurowings, flydubai, Pegasus Airlines, Norwegian Air, Ryanair, and Wizz Air.
Tuzla Airport mainly serves flights from Germany, Sweden, and France, while Banja Luka has connections to Serbia, Montenegro, Germany, Italy, and Sweden. Mostar Airport rarely has passenger traffic (it only served about 10,000 travelers last year) and isn’t really a viable option.
Alternatively, you can also fly into Croatia’s Dubrovnik airport (DBV) and drive or take a bus to Mostar.
To see current airline ticket prices, add your destination and travel dates here:
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BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA BY BUS
Like many other Balkan countries, Bosnia and Herzegovina has a well-connected bus system that goes through major cities and towns. While there might only be a few daily departures, at least you can count on visiting most corners of the country. :)
Most bus stations are spacious and have a row of kiosks to buy tickets, as well as a small cafe and sitting area. Most of the time, there will also be a small store or restaurant nearby (such as Zmaj, the delicious cevapi restaurant near the Sarajevo bus station 😉).
Here are a few sample prices for domestic bus trips in Bosnia & Herzegovina (for a one-way ticket):
Sarajevo to Mostar — 10 to 13 EUR
Sarajevo to Tuzla — 14 EUR
Sarajevo to Banja Luka — 20 to 22 EUR
Sarajevo to Bihac — 30 EUR
… and here are a few international routes:
Mostar to Dubrovnik (Croatia) — 23 to 25 EUR
Mostar to Split (Croatia) — 20 to 23 EUR
Mostar to Zagreb (Croatia) — 40 to 45 EUR
Mostar to Kotor (Montenegro) — 21 to 30 EUR
Sarajevo to Belgrade (Serbia) — 25 to 30 EUR
Sarajevo to Budapest (Hungary) — 55 to 60 EUR
The easiest and most convenient way to book most tickets is through FlixBus, as it allows you to book online and has all the information you need (i.e. bus station address). Otherwise, you can buy tickets in advance at a bus stop.
One important thing to note is that you’ll need to print out your bus ticket before boarding. It’s best to ask your hotel to print it out, although in a few places the nice employees at the bus station helped us out (i.e. Mostar).
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BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA BY TRAIN
Bosnia and Herzegovina has a basic train network that goes to major cities across the country and is shaped in a T. Major cities along the route include Bihac and Banja Luka to the west; Tuzla to the east; Zanica and Sarajevo in the center; and Mostar to the south.
There are also a few branch lines that go to secondary destinations like Konjic, Visoko, and Capljina.
There are two government railway companies that operate in Bosnia & Herzegovina: ŽFBH (which operates in the Bosnia Federation) and ŽRS (in Republika Srpska).
However, it’s important to note that you can book tickets on the ŽFBH (Bosnian Federation) website and pick them up at the station, but you can’t book tickets on the ŽRS/Republika Srpska website (you can only check the timetables).
Trains in Bosnia & Herzegovina are fairly basic yet comfortable, and are in the process of being modernized (we took the train from Sarajevo to Bosnia and it was quite sleek and new!). Traveling via train takes about the same time as going by bus, although delays are somewhat common — our train to Mostar was delayed by an hour because something was stuck on the rails. 😅
BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA BY CAR
Although Bosnia’s buses can take you virtually anywhere in the country, sometimes it’s nice to rent a car to get to those off the beaten path places, like national parks or lakes.
Renting a car in Bosnia and Herzegovina is simple and easy — you’ll find that most major car rental companies operate in the country, including Enterprise, Sixt, Hertz, Europcar, and more.
Prices start around $10 to $15 USD per day (no, that’s not a typo!) for basic economy types, and go up from there.
There’s also the option to pick up your rental car from Sarajevo Airport, as well as from Tuzla or Banja Luka (convenient if you’re flying in and starting your road trip right away!)
I recommend checking out prices and availability on RentalCars, which is the site I always use when booking my own rental cars. :)
BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA BY TAXI
If you prefer to enjoy a stress-free trip that doesn’t involve dealing with timetables, reserving tickets, or figuring out which bus station to depart from, then booking a taxi transfer is the perfect choice.
There are plenty of taxi transfers in Bosnia that will take you around the country, whether that’s a one-way private tour or a simple transfer from point A to point B.
Some of the most-served routes include Sarajevo to Belgrade, Sarajevo to Mostar, and Sarajevo to Dubrovnik.
I recommend booking via GetYourGuide or Viator, as you’ll be able to see the price up front and prepay with a credit card.
ACCOMMODATIONS IN BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
There are plenty of accommodations in Bosnia & Herzegovina for any taste and budget, from delightful family-run guesthouses to modern hotels, cozy hostels, convenient aparthotels, and everything in between!
Here’s a quick overview of the different accommodations you’ll find in Bosnia:
GUESTHOUSES
You might be wondering why guesthouses are listed first, and that’s because there are about 10 or 15 guest houses per 1 hotel in Bosnia & Herzegovina!
That’s right: guesthouses are much more common in Bosnia, and you’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to finding a place to stay. Most guest houses are small family-run businesses, while others feel more like an upscale boutique hotel.
HOTELS
Hotels are recently starting to gain popularity, especially since major brands like Sofitel, ibis, and Marriott are making their way into the market.
The majority of hotels are centered in major cities like Sarajevo, Mostar, and Banja Luka, although most towns should have at least a few hotels.
UNIQUE ACCOMMODATIONS
Besides the usual hotels, hostels, and guesthouses, there are also a few unique accommodation types in Bosnia & Herzegovina:
Vikendica— Translated to ‘weekend houses,’ vikendica are just that: a place to get away for the weekend or longer stretches of time. Weekend houses are typically cabins or houses (not apartments) and can hold a large group of people. In some cases, you’ll need to reserve a minimum number of days (i.e. 2 or more).
Etno Selo — The best way to describe etno selo is a type of traditional village. The houses are typically built in the traditional style of cabins, stone houses, and bungalows, and there’s usually an on-site restaurant that serves local food. Etno selos are an excellent way to see how locals lived in the past, and many are decorated in beautiful antique furniture and textiles!
Etno Village Cardaci — Probably the most well-known etno selo in Bosnia, Cardaci is the place to book if you want to immerse yourself in Bosnian traditions. Everything looks as if it was transported from 150 years ago, including the wood and cabin accents in the main buildings. There’s a beautiful garden and pond area, plus an on-site restaurant and pool! BOOK HERE
Herceg Etno Selo Međugorje — Tastefully decorated and set in a traditional stone house near the popular tourist destination of Medugorje. BOOK HERE
Etno Selo Eden — Located in northern Bosnia, Eden is made up of adorable ‘bungalow cabins’ and has a garden and a restaurant. As a bonus, you can pay by card! BOOK HERE
WELLNESS RESORTS
Thanks to the abundance of nature in Bosnia & Herzegovina, dozens of eco- and wellness resorts have recently popped up. Many take advantage of the surrounding environment to offer wellness activities like hiking, spa centers, classes, and much more.
Hotel Kostelski Buk — Located near Bihać with gorgeous views of the Una river. Be sure to reserve a suite with a jacuzzi that overlooks the waterfall! BOOK HERE
Hotel Monti Spa & Wellness — Nestled in the heart of Igman Mountain and just 30 minutes from Sarajevo, this sleek hotel uses traditional elements like wood and stone to create a cozy atmosphere. There are plenty of hiking and skiing trails nearby, plus a fitness center, indoor pool, and spa. BOOK HERE
Pino Nature Hotel — The most famous wellness hotel in Bosnia, Pino Nature is located on Trebevic Mountain and has everything you need for an eco/wellness vacation, including two saunas, massage rooms, an indoor pool, fitness center, and a healthy breakfast buffet. BOOK HERE
LOOKING FOR EVEN MORE UNIQUE ACCOMMODATIONS IN BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA?
Check out my blog post with more than 25 unique accommodations in Bosnia, including a historic 500-year old Turkish bath-turned-hotel, more ethno selos, and apartments with jaw-dropping views of Mostar’s Old Bridge — just click here!
WHERE TO GO IN BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
Bosnia & Herzegovina is most famous for its beautiful nature — including stunning waterfalls, verdant forests, rivers, national parks, and more! — but it doesn’t stop there. The country also has a fantastic mix of Ottoman-era architecture, fortresses, thought-provoking museums, and much more. Here’s a quick overview:
CULTURE & CITIES
SARAJEVO — Its cozy teahouses, an atmosphere of joie de vivre, and unique mix of Ottoman and European influences give it a distinct ambiance that pulls you in and makes you want to explore. Sarajevo is, in a sense, similar to other Balkan cities like Novi Sad (Serbia) or Plovdiv (Bulgaria). Although fairly compact, it offers the perfect mix of cultural landmarks, museums, touristy things to do, and a thriving cafe and foodie scene. Thanks to its central location in Bosnia & Herzegovina, Sarajevo is an excellent base to start or end your trip.
Read my Sarajevo city guide here →
MOSTAR — Mostar is one of the most popular cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and for good reason!
The most famous attraction is, without a doubt, the Stari Most (Old Bridge) that connects the eastern and western part of the city. However, it doesn’t end there: the city has a quaint historical bazaar with lots of souvenirs, charming cobblestone alleys, and well-preserved Ottoman buildings. Sounds awesome, right?
Read my Mostar city guide here →
BANJA LUKA — Banja Luka is the second-largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina and is known for its rich history, including the medieval Kastel Fortress. Check out one of the many museums, such as the Museum of Modern Art, or take a stroll along the picturesque Vrbas River.
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NATURE
JAJCE — Jajce is probably one of the most delightful little villages that you’ve never heard of.
Located northwest of Sarajevo, Jajce’s claim to fame is its stunning waterfalls, which are often selected as some of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world. The waterfalls are created at the spot where two rivers, the Pliva and Vrbas, meet — and the best way to see this natural phenomenon is at the expansive viewing deck in front.
BLAGAJ — A medley of beautiful emerald and green colors await at Blagaj! This small town is home to the famous Dervish House and is a popular day trip from Mostar (it’s only a 10-minute ride away!)
The most famous attraction in Blagaj is, without a doubt, the traditional Dervish House. This modest, Ottoman-style building has been sitting near for centuries but has only recently become a tourist attraction. Also known as Blagaj Tekke, the word tekke is used to describe a building that is specifically designed for Sufi gathering. The Sufis, who believe in Sufism (a type of mystical practice in Islam), would use these types of houses for spiritual retreat, prayer, and even as a place to host other Sufi travelers.
KRAVICE WATERFALL — Kravice Waterfalls is a popular tourist destination located in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The waterfalls are located on the Trebižat River, and are approximately 25 meters in height. The falls are surrounded by lush greenery and are a great spot for swimming and picnicking.
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BEACHES
NEUM — Despite its 20 km (12 mi) of coastline, Neum packs a punch! Hidden behind a closed bay, Neum is a hidden paradise of sandy beaches and calm waters. Swim and enjoy some sun during the day, or walk along the seaside promenade once the sun goes down.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
There are so many things to do in Bosnia & Herzegovina that it would make this blog post two or three times longer if I were to list them all here!
Therefore, I present to you: the Ultimate Bosnia Bucket List! There are more than 35 awesome things to see and do in Bosnia —- watch this space and the post will be here soon. :)
WHAT TO EAT IN BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
Just like the country’s history and culture, Bosnia & Herzegovina takes a lot of inspiration from both Eastern and Western influences. You’ll see plenty of dishes from the Ottoman empire, as well as overlapping regional specialties from Balkan neighbors and other European countries.
APPETIZERS & SIDES
🍽️ Burek: The most popular pastry in Bosnia is none other than the burek (borek), which is made of flaky filo dough and stuffed with spinach, cheese, minced meat, mushrooms, potato, or a mix of the latter. It’s an excellent snack to take with you on a long day of exploring!
🍽️ Dolma: An appetizer that can be vegetarian-friendly or with meat, dolma are stuffed grape leaves with meat, rice, and/or vegetables.
🍜 Begova Čorba: A common soup (chorba is translated to soup) made from chicken, okra, vegetables, and sour cream.
🥘 Bosanski Lonac: Another traditional soup from Bosnia, Bosanski Lonac (‘Bosnian Pot’) is a type of stew that’s very versatile and made with a mix of meat, cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, beans, and/or peas. The ingredients are left to stew for several hours and then served.
MAINS
🌭 Cevapi: You can’t get any more Balkan than cevapi! Bosnia’s national dish is the ubiquitous cevapi (sometimes written as ćevapčići), a short little roll of sausage that’s made of minced meat and grilled. It’s typically served alongside a piece of flatbread, along with chopped onions, tomatoes, and cream (kajmak). Although everyone has their favorite ćevabdžinica (cevapi restaurant), I recommend Ćevabdžinica Hari in Travnik; Ćevabdžinica Zmaj near the Sarajevo train station; and Ćevabdžinica Željo near Sarajevo’s Old Town.
🍗 Meat: Traditional Bosnian cuisine is full of meat dishes, including stand-alone grilled, roasted, and smoked meats. You’ll typically find juicy skewered meat cooked over a grill and topped with spices. However, it should be noted that the majority of places serve beef, lamb, and chicken, as half of the country adheres to Islam and pork is uncommon (except near the border of Croatia and Serbia).
🍞 Musaka: You might have heard of this dish while traveling to Greek, but the Bosnian version is a little different — it’s made by layering ground beef and slices of potato, and topping it off with egg and cream.
DESSERTS
🍮 Baklava: A staple of Ottoman cuisine, baklava is very popular across Bosnia & Herzegovina. The local version is made from filo pastry, chopped nuts, and a simple sugar syrup.
🍮 Halva: A common snack to enjoy with coffee or tea, halva is a thick and sweet paste-like dessert.
🍮 Tufahije: An apple marinated in sugar water and stuffed with walnuts or other nuts. Usually served with cream on top.
🍮 Ustipci: Little fritters of fried dough topped with powdered sugar. :) These are typically served on their own, or with an assortment of jams or creams.
DRINKS
☕️ Bosnian coffee: Bosnian coffee isn’t just a drink, it’s a lifestyle. No joke: Bosnia comes in 11th place of countries that drink the most coffee in the world! This essential drink is made by taking ground coffee and hot water to a džezva (a special pot with a high neck and handle) and boiled a few times. The kafa (coffee) is then served in a small cup, typically with a cube of sugar and a tall glass of water.
🍷 Wine: Did you know that Bosnia & Herzegovina has a wine industry? It’s true! There are a handful of wine regions in the country, including Mostar, Domanovići, and Međugorje. In fact, you can go on a fun local wine and cheese tasting in Sarajevo, visit a winery (with tasting) in Međugorje, or go on a combined food and wine tour in Mostar.
Bosnia & Herzegovina Food Tours
Looking to immerse yourself in delicious Bosnian food? Why not take a fun food walking tour! Here are some top rated ones:
WHERE TO GO AFTER BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
Heart-shaped Bosnia and Herzegovina is surrounded by three neighbors: Croatia to the northwest, Serbia to the east, and Montenegro to the southeast.
Thankfully, there are plenty of convenient connections to all three countries from major Bosnian cities (i.e. Sarajevo, Mostar, Banja Luka, etc).
🇭🇷 Croatia
One of the most popular destinations in the Balkans, Croatia is full of sun, sand, and historic towns.
Sarajevo has connections to major Croatian cities like Zagreb (8 hours), Rijeka (13 hours), Split (7 hours), and Dubrovnik (6 hours).
Likewise, one of the most popular routes between Bosnia and Croatia includes a trip from Mostar to Dubrovnik. The journey takes about 3.5 to 4.5 hours (depending on border traffic) and there are multiple departures daily.
If you prefer to fly, there are quite a few routes between Bosnia and Croatia, yet only one is direct (Sarajevo to Zagreb). All other flights (Sarajevo to Dubrovnik, Split, Zadar, and Pula) have a stopover in Zagreb before continuing onto the final destination.
🇷🇸 Serbia
If you’re road tripping through the Balkans, there’s a pretty good chance that you’ll be traveling between Bosnia and Serbia. The distance between both capitals (Sarajevo to Belgrade) is around 9 hours, while Sarajevo to Novi Sad is around 10 hours.
If you’re planning to travel from Belgrade to Sarajevo (or Belgrade to any major city in Bosnia) and want to break up your trip, I highly recommend stopping in Bijeljina. It’s the first ‘big’ city after you cross the border into Bosnia & Herzegovina, and is a delightful little spot to explore for a few hours.
Likewise, another popular route is from Visegrad (Bosnia) to Mokra Gora (Serbia). This area is famous for its beautiful and unspoiled nature, tourist resorts (Andrićgrad in Bosnia and Drvengrad in Serbia), and adorable cabins.
Alternatively, there are direct flights from both Banja Luka and Sarajevo to Belgrade. Prices start around 40 USD for a one-way ticket, and the flight time is less than an hour.
🇲🇪 Montenegro
Sharing a 250 kilometer-long border, Montenegro is one of the most popular destinations — especially during the summer!
There are multiple border crossings between the two countries, but the most popular city to use as a starting point is Trebinje, which is just a 30-minute drive from the border. From here, you can travel to Kotor (5 hours by bus), Budva (4.5 hours by bus), Cetinje (4 hours by bus), and Podgorica (3 hours by bus).
Psst — Click the city name to read my blog post about that city, or click the link in the parenthesis (i.e. 5 hours by bus) to check bus tickets!
Likewise, there’s also the option to take a bus from Mostar to Kotor (around 6 to 8 hours by bus) or Mostar to Budva (7 to 8.5 hours by bus).
There are also flights between major airports in Bosnia and Montenegro. The three most popular routes include Sarajevo to Kotor, Sarajevo to Podgorica, and Sarajevo to Budva. However, all three require a stop in Belgrade (Serbia).
Thank you so much for this wonderful guide! And also your pics are amazing!